Monday, January 04, 2016

1 4 16 morning call

That's how Honolua bay occasionally looked yesterday.

But that's a closer to reality image. And there were plenty flat lulls too.

Much more of yesterday's action in a album by Jimmie Hepp. Here's a big punt at Lanes.

The buoys graph below shows the peak of the new large NW swell at around 4am at the NW buoy at around 14f 15s, which leads me to predict a peak of the swell in Maui in the late afternoon.
It also shows that that buoy is not as sensitive as the Waimea and Pauwela ones. Or at least, the surfline software can't extrapolate the long period energy out of the raw data as well as it does for those last two. Might have to do with the fact that it's more out there in the ocean and it probably receives more energy from all kinds of swells and directions.
Check instead that 25s readings at the Waimea and Pauwela (I circled them) that started the series of long period readings (I underlined them).

At 6am Pauwela is reading
5.4ft @ 20s from 330° (NW)
5.1ft @ 12s from 324° (NW)
4.6ft @ 13s from 320° (NW)
4.4ft @ 15s from 323° (NW)
which makes me think that the ocean will be a mess. But hopefully not at Jaws, where the only energy breaking should be the new long period one. It should be a good show with surfing in the early hours (Kelly Slater is in town, btw) and wind sports later on.

The messiness guess is confirmed by the Surfline Pipeline cam. You can see the long period waves breaking at the third reef, but the inside is an absolute mess.
So it should be Maui's north shore (other than Jaws, again), so pick the west side if you want to see some cleaner lines.

Wind map shows a nice NW fetch for continuous provisioning of waves. Also shows a residual of possible light trades for today.

MC2km map at noon shows that wind.

Injury update: the shortboard test failed. The foam protection worked beautifully though, in fact I was able to paddle all the way out at Kanaha with my lower ribs not touching the board at all. But then when it was time to paddle vigorously to catch a wave, the cartilage started clicking. So I went from "great, I'm back on a short board!" to "damn, I'm not" in a matter of a wave catching attempt.
I had to paddle back in (no clicking in that) without even catching one wave (you guys know how crowded Kanaha is and being on a a 5.10 didn't really help).

So what do you do if you're a semi-depressed passionate surfer who just found out you can't go back to your passion yet? You go to Honolua to take photo, of course...
Fortunately I came back for a sunset SUP session and that one went fine with no clicking.
So out of the three disciplines I practice I can do two (SUP and windsurfing), which is great. Third and favorite one will require more time and more patience. Much better than being in jail.

No comments: