My high crowd advisory call for yesterday was an easy one, since the waves were relatively small and clean. Photo by Jimmie Hepp.
My second water shoot instead wasn't easy at all. I shot Middles and that means I had to hold the camera with the left hand and I ended up aiming it too much towards the beach most of the times. The only decent shot I got, is of this Middles icon known as Uncle.
The buoys readings have been tough to analyze lately. There's no 20s readings at the NW buoy, since that one was probably hit by too much lower period energy (and active sea), but fortunately we can see them clearly at Hanalei and Waimea (that's what's on the combined graphs today).
I circled in blue the readings related to a first long period pulse that is not the extra large one.
I circled in red the readings related to a second long period pulse that is the one.
They're both on a steep rise. Lots of energy out there with sets from both pulses, so it should be very consistent. I'm calling for big carnage at Jaws with surfers getting caught inside a lot.
Talking of which, Pauwela only reads 3.7ft @ 16s from 328° (NW) from the first pulse at 6am.
The peak of the swell in Maui will be just after sundown (8pm forecast 17.7f 16s), don't hurry going to Jaws at sunrise because it will be flat, but it will be quickly rising all day.
With the swell comes a front. This image was taken at 6.30am and the Pipeline cam confirms some rain in Oahu (and a washed up unsurfable lineup).
This is the radar at 6.55am. Some rain on its way, but not the heaviest. Careful if you drive down at Jaws, you might get caught down there.
Wind map shows the massive NW fetch now aiming at the west coast, we're still gonna get something from the tail end of it.
The Cook Islands storm is going to stay in that position for several day. Its swell will have to travel about 20 degrees latitude more than the Pali storm, it'll be interesting to compare the two. I'm calling for a big difference in size. I'm actually more worried that the southerly fetch of its eastern side will kill the south swells on the way.
And there are and will be south swells on the way. Also today a nice fetch S and SE of New Zealand.
MC2km map at noon shows another lovely day with almost no wind other than a light southerly flow.