Monday, January 02, 2017

1 2 17 morning call

I had a very busy day yesterday, but still managed to surf Hookipa at dawn and I can also report that the waves at Thousand Peaks where even smaller than the day before. Actually still occasionally knee high but less consistent.

I'll grab another shot of that magic Honolua day by Si Crowther, This is his Instagram page, in case you guys want to follow the UK photographer.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore

Lanai
0.8ft @ 11s from 202° (SSW)
Barbers
0.8ft @ 11s from 201° (SSW)

Same exact readings on the two local south facing buoys (just one degree of difference), that is a rare event. Both are extremely low and I'm guessing the waves will be even smaller than yesterday, but the way to find out is to check the webcams. Tomorrow there should be a more proper swell and hopefully we will see some 18s readings instead.

North shore
N
5ft @ 10s from 4° (N)

Pauwela
4.8ft @ 11s from 23° (NNE)
3.6ft @ 9s from 26° (NNE)
2.1ft @ 4s from 60° (ENE)

That small NW pulse disappeared from all buoys and so we're back to the northerly "short" period energy. Funny how 10 seconds can be called short period in Hawaii (that's how the NOAA called it this morning) and in other places of the world (like where I'm from) it would be one of the longest periods they've ever seen. 
 
Well, funny for me that I live here now, maybe not for my friends back home. Anyway, maybe that's why I don't mind 10s at all even here, as long as there's no bad wind on it. I actually had a couple of really smooth faces to work with even yesterday morning in conditions that I ranked 2.5. Once again, the score of the conditions has nothing to do with the amount of fun one can have in those conditions.
Well of course it has, but what I mean is that not necessarily the two things are the same. The second (the fun) depends a lot on your attitude. For example, yesterday I was just happy to be sitting at Middles by myself and watching the brown water reflect the sunrise light creating some very unusual colors. Then I caught one that offered a smooth brown face and I didn't waste it. Bum! One good turn, enough for me to call it fun!
 
Another thing you guys won't hear me complaining about is the rain. I know it has been pouring hard and has crated some problems. But it's part of the winter and as such I love it. I'll be dreaming about rainy days like yesterday or the day before as soon as March. October, November, December, January and February. That's what the Hawaiian winter is for me (plenty waves, not so much wind and yes, collaterally some rain) and we're already more than halfway. No wasting sessions these days.

Allright, where was I? Geez, I get sidetracked easily...
Oh yeah, those 5f 11s fom 23 degrees are predicted to decrease throughout the day and tomorrow could be another relatively small day for the season. But tomorrow is tomorrow, so let's get those waves today!
 
Current wind map shows:
1) a tiny WNW fetch
2) the little lovely low north of us must have been fed some good and healthy and cold moisture and has regained strength and is now offering us a perfect little NNW fetch. Surfline calls for 8f 12s from 340 for Wednesday afternoon. That screams Honolua.
3) more NE energy will come from fetch n.3
4) wow, that is a proper fetch down under! Let's see how it evolves, but for sure we're gonna have a bit of an out of season south swell also next week



MC2km map at noon shows no chance of sailing anywhere. Better go surfing, wind-guys!

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