Sunday, January 29, 2017

Sunday 1 28 17 morning call

Couple of sessions for me yesterday, the conditions were excellent until mid morning when, as predicted by the MC2km maps, some light trades picked up. It was actually still fun even with the light wind, but I got cold again and had to leave. I immediately sent an email to the Hi-Tech's wetsuit buyer to get a 3/2. Too bad nobody makes them short legs, but I can always cut one I guess.
In the meantime, this morning I'll put my 4/3 in the car.

This is how Hookipa looked later in the day. Savanna Stone in a photo by Jimmie Hepp.
It looked a lot better (and a bit smaller) early morning,

I thought about going to Honolua for my second session, but I had to work at 2 and timing would have been tight. I preferred to take it easy and stay on the north shore, but the drive would have been worthy it, as this photo taken by a friend in the afternoon shows. It sure looked good...

...but not quite as good as it looked last Wednesday. This video from Elliot Leboe shows the amazing spectacle that was going on that day. Mid section is dedicated to Ian Gentil who, as I wrote the day after, was also the one I liked the most. Can't believe I was out there in those waves, actually.


7am significant buoy readings
South shore

No southerly readings, check the webcams.

North shore
8.8ft @ 13s from 324° (NW)
7.3ft @ 10s from 344° (NNW)
3.2ft @ 4s from 6° (N)
8.4ft @ 14s from 324° (NW)           
6ft @ 10s from 32° (NE)
1.5ft @ 6s from 2° (N)

8.2ft @ 13s from 311° (NW)
6.3ft @ 8s from 331° (NNW)

8.8ft @ 13s from 333° (NNW)
4.3ft @ 9s from 35° (NE)

I usually clean up the non significant readings from all the buoys (other than Pauwela), but today I left them all so you guys can have an idea of the mix of periods, sizes and directions we're are about to get slammed with. Energy from remote and nearby sources and local wind will make the ocean a mess for the first part of this week.

For today, if the wind wasn't on it, the Bay would be absolutely firing with such a good size and direction at Pauwela, but the Kapalua airport sensor is reading 24mph (gusting to 30) from 30 degrees and I believe that will make the conditions pretty choppy. I got a morning work shift so I'm not interested, send me a message/post a comment if you go please.

As for the north shore, it's a classic stay home kind of day. And if you're really desperate, there's always Paia Bay.
Current wind map shows:
1) a pretty classic NW fetch
2) the northerly fetch that is unfortunately too close. We're suffering from the active wind of it and we will do so for at least three more days. We haven't even received the brunt of the wave energy from this fetch. Surfline's calling for 15f at 15s for tomorrow, which honestly seems way too high, while the WW3 calls for 9f 14s. We'll see.
3) a dying easterly fetch. The related easterly swell is supposed to pick up later today. The Hilo buoy has a reading of 4.6ft @ 9s from 86° (E)
When I woke up around 4, I immediately checked the wind on It was blowing pretty strong (can't remember exactly, but more than 15mph) and all the sensors on the north shore. That's why I posted that temporary call and decided to go back to sleep. But if the updated MC2km maps would have been available, this 7am one below could have possibly convinced me to get up and get into the usual surfing routine.

It in fact shows that the front was gonna hit Hookipa only around 8am. Guess what, it's now 8.20am and the Hookipa sensor is only reading 8mph from ENE, so the real onshore hasn't hit yet. I will anytime, but there might have been a possible dawn patrol session somewhere that would have not been as horrible as I thought. Oh well, it felt good to sleep in for a change.
This is the 1pm map and it's quite self explanatory.
This is the 7.30am satellite picture. The blue line is the (weak) front that has just reached us. The red circle shows the classic cold air following a front.
Lastly, here's a snapshot from this WSL page showing the results of the final and first semifinal at the WQS contest at Sunset beach. I am overly impressed with Kai Lenny's performance.
It is true that he's done a few big wave contests and that he hence was in familiar territory at Sunset (which was pretty damn big), but he got to the semifinals by winning all his heats (but the quarterfinal in which he got second) with scores much higher that his opponents. And in the semifinal he got a 8.25 before being involved in an interference call.

I believe this was the first WQS contest. I really hope he's gonna do as many as his busy schedule will allow him to get a chance to qualify for the WCT tour. I know, he's 24 and he's not the best in small waves conditions. But he's Kai Lenny. Most likely the 24 year old in the world that has ridden the most number of waves (on whatever craft). He'll adjust.

Word of mention also for the phenomenal Finn McGill, who got second to Jack Robinson and instead is only 16 and probably has a brilliant future in the competitive surfing world.

PS. For whom it may concern: it's the end of the coffee and oil free week. I miserably failed the coffee challenge. But I only had three which is a lot better than 14+!
I did stick to the no oil though. It was pretty hard, but I feel that if I keep working on my alternative dressings and let my taste get used to them, I can possibly win this one. I'm actually gonna try not to use much dressings at all. Our ancestors didn't use any, why did we need to enhance flavors at one point? Let's see how I do next week.

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