Monday, January 09, 2017

1 9 17 morning call

A surfing and a windsurfing session was how I utilized my precious time yesterday morning before going to work in the afternoon.

As reported from the beach, Hookipa in the early morning had some relatively clean head high peaks, with the occasional head and a half bomb. Very shifty and hard to read, I actually enjoyed the hunt for the peak more than the riding. Also because my hunt wasn't too successful, so I didn't ride many...
But if I had one of those tracing devices, I would like to see how many times I went left and right in the lineup hoping that that lump out there would materialize into a catchable wave.

That was also because:
1) I felt so full of energy that I had to burn it somehow. Good food (more than 90% of what I eat is unprocessed whole plants) and good sleep are doing wonders, I've never felt better in my life.
2) the first hour was uncrowded. You can't hunt as freely when it's crowded. What's the point of paddling over there if there's three guys in that area already? I plan on doing the same today, hopefully I'll catch a few more this time.

One more spontaneous blog donation at the beach, thank you very much. It came with a tangerine that was delicious too.

These are the surfing conditions later on when the light trades picked up, showing some pretty bad texture. Photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery. Windsurfing never happened because of the 10 man rule.

Before we jump into the call, here's a interesting Facebook post by Chris Owens.

Worlds first shove -it double ender that I invented around 1990. I had the idea since the mid 80s ,I'm pretty sure before wake boarding and when I built this,I had never seen a wake board.When I first saw a wake board,I thought they ripped off my idea.I am an innovator of the shove-it in skateboarding back in 1977,I was the first to do 360 and 720 shove-its and later invented the shove- it to 50\50 on ramps.During the mid 80s in surfing ,I started doing skeg reverse shuvit offs,in small waves,by the time the 90 s came I was doing the maneuver at Sunset ,Backdoor and OTW with a keel on the front of my board ,to help steer it backwards. Rainos Hayes and Kent Senatore were some of my witnesses. For this idea ,I wanted to make a board that was a skateboard for the water. I used a dish to make the template for the keels that could go forward or reverse.On this board,I was doing front side and backside shuvits,,I could also do lip slides into fakies.Everyone thought I was on acid when I would ride this board,but they were just afraid of change.I still think these boards are a part of the future and there are a few people who have been riding double enders in the recent years.This board really got dissed from Surfer magazine,saying it will never work as they posted a pic as it washed up the beach at Backdoor and an Aussie mag pictured it also on the shoreline saying it was seen ridden by an elderly bloke at Backdoor.I was only 34 at the time.That was the way they thought back then.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

0.6ft @ 16s from 207° (SSW)

0.7ft @ 16s from 198° (SSW)

Lovely long period small readings at the two south facing local buoys, don't forget this is a week that will see some action on the south shore. Mid week should be the fun, but you should always check the webcams before going, no matter what.

North shore
5.5ft @ 10s from 23° (NNE)

4.5ft @ 11s from 20° (NNE)
3.4ft @ 9s from 24° (NNE)
1.4ft @ 5s from 50° (NE)

If you scroll down to yesterday's call and compare those readings, you'll see that they are very similar, but both of them have lost one second in their main swell component. That means that the pizza lost a bit of dough and the resulting ball won't be as big when going back together upon shoaling on the reef. To understand what I'm talking about (no, it's not a sudden attack of homesickness), here's the link a March 2015 morning call in which I elaborate about the implications of the wave period. You can skip the call and go straight to the explanation below the last picture of the wind map.
The period of a wave not only influences the size and steepness and overall power of a wave breaking on the reef, but also its ability to refract (wrap) around shallow waters. I talk about that in this other post. Both posts can be accessed under the label "wave period" in the labels section of this blog. That's how I was able to retrieve them.

So today we can expect similar conditions to yesterday, just a tad smaller/weaker. Still head high and fun is my guess, but stay tuned for the beach report for a more precise conditions report.

Current wind map shows:
1) a very westerly fetch. The open ocean swell out of this fetch is going to be quite big, but that is most definitely not the best direction for anywhere on Maui's north shore. Might be good somewhere else, like the Kihei area. 12.8f 16s from 309 is the peak Surfline is calling for Friday night. That is the size and direction for Maui's offshore waters, after the refraction upon the upstream islands. You'll see that the buoys like NW or W will register a much more westerly direction.
2) that's a more traditional NW fetch. 6.8f 16s from 318 is the peak Surfline is calling for mid day Thursday
3) a stubborn remote NNE fetch up the gulf of Alaska
4) a small, weak and not well oriented fetch down south

NAM3km map at 7am shows great surfing conditions for the dawn patrollers.

NAM3km map at noon shows good surfing conditions also for the sleeper-ins.

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