Friday, January 06, 2017

1 6 17 morning call

Yesterday was yet anther great day of surfing on the island. Below are a couple of shot ot Hookipa by Jimmie Hepp out of this fat gallery.

I could claim that at least head high means AT LEAST head high, but I did call the size from home in a conservative way.

This is my morning student. He's clearly falling, but it somehow looks like he's doing the most radical turn ever done on a longboard on a one foot wave.

After the lesson I went to the Bay which was chest to shoulder high. Fun on a longboard. A successful nose ride earned me the appellative of "longboard style master" by Micah Nickens in the water... he's got a good sense of humor.

Well, at least I got the temperature forecast right!

4am significant buoy readings.
South shore

1.4ft @ 13s from 211° (SW)

1.6ft @ 13s from 229° (SW)

South swell still hanging in there with the period down to 13s. Check the webcams before going.

North shore
5.5ft @ 12s from 22° (NNE)

6.9ft @ 13s from 10° (N)

4.4ft @ 13s from 7° (N)

5.3ft @ 13s from 17° (NNE)
3.8ft @ 9s from 2° (N)

NNE swell on the rise, plenty waves on offer also today. The problem will be the light northerly wind which will probably introduce a texture/chop. It was already there when I watched Hookipa at sunset, so I'm afraid it might be on it already at dawn. That is unfortunately confirmed by a reading of the iWindsurf sensor at 5.15am that says 10mpg from the north. Once again I won't be able to make an early morning beach report, because I have another 6.30am work appointment.

Current wind map shows:
1) A distant and not well oriented WNW fetch.
2) a close NNE fetch. Notice how there's two sections with strong wind. We can call that two separate swells.
3) a weak fetch down south. South swell next week should be long lasting.

NAM3km map at noon shows the light northerly wind.

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