Pretty bad conditions on the north shore yesterday, but I managed to get a session by myself at one of my favorite spots with fun waves (east swell, if you're curious). Unfortunately I only lasted 35 minutes, before I got cold and had to come out of the water. I had the 4/3 in the car, but I wanted to keep it dry for today, because I'm gonna need it for sure. Am I the only one having these issues with cold?
No photos of the day, here's one of the many foil videos that we are being bombarded with. The foil sure lengthens the ride, but it's been long time that length of ride is not even in the surfing contest judging criteria anymore. And if I just look at it, I still have huge doubts about the level of fun that a ride like that can provide, but that's because I'm still thinking in surfing terms and expect to see spray and lips demolished and stuff. Instead that's a completely different game.
And it's without a doubt that the craze is mostly due to the sheepish nature of modern times humans. I heard sentences like "damn, my foil is not here yet and my friends are all learning and I hate to be left behind".
Inspired by genuine interest and looking for motivation to drop the bucks, I had a quick very technical chat with Dave Kalama (featured in the video) after which I ordered a foil myself. But it wasn't because of what we talked about. It was because he had the eyes of the kid (he was just coming out of the water after a foil session). He was seriously stoked to be doing this. And if something can stoke out a guy like Dave, I'd better give it a try.
Stay tuned, the Chinese New Year celebrations will soon end and hopefully those foils will get finally shipped. Let's hope those friends don't get too good in the meantime...
4am significant buoy readings
No readings, check the webcams.
10.2ft @ 14s from 331° (NNW)
18.5ft @ 15s from 325° (NW)
13.9ft @ 13s from 333° (NNW)
Massive numbers at the buoys, you really need to find a sheltered spot if you want to surf on the north shore today. Otherwise, the west side would be the next best call.
Current wind map shows:
1) WNW fetch off Japan
2) the close fetch north of us that is behind (literally) those big numbers at the buoys
NAM3km map at 7am shows sideon winds on the north shore. The afternoon map looks just the same. Check the MC2km maps (link. n17) when they become available.
No Hookipa beach report because I'm leaving in the dark for a surf guide, but you don't need one: it's unsurfable. Instead hopefully my customer will score (and me with him).