Wednesday, February 08, 2017

Wedneday 2 8 17 morning call

Thanks to the light Kona and despite the mix of periods in the water that made it less than perfect (8.5 was my score), yesterday started with waves like this.

And it ended with waves like this (obviously in a completely different spot). Surfer Chanel Cendejas.

Here's a few more shots of the sunset spot. Jaws paddle in pioneer Marcio Freire training with one of his Jaws' guns.

Local braddah charging the right.

I surf with this guy all the times, but I don't know his name. I'll ask him next time.
He's a really good shortboarder, but it looks like it can also put a SUP board on the rail.


Dominating the session was surfer Keola Wai, who got barreled each single wave he caught. Here's a couple.

The spot in the first photo was a 8.5 in the morning and a 0.2 (twice as big and total junk) in the evening.
The spot in the second photo was a 0 (flat) in the morning and a 9 in the evening.
That should tell you how important it is to follow the evolution of weather and swells in order to score good sessions and be in the right places at the right times. Yesterday that game was a lot of fun.

The MC2km maps never got updated (Woodie must be sick, or was it Willie?), but the wind this time did exactly what the NAM model predicted and NOT what the HRW model (in its Windguru version) predicted: from 7 to 10 was light Kona. From 10 to 12 turned NW. Then it turned Kona again till 2. Then it turned NW for the rest of the day... at least on the north shore. But there were also moments in the afternoon, in which Kihei had 20 mph onshore from the south and Kahului 10 onshore from the north... at the same time!

Below is the graph of the iWindsurf Hookipa sensor. I highlighted the back and forth switch with the blue (Kona) and red (NW) pen up top.

4am significant buoy readings.
South shore

All wraps at the buoys, check the webcams.

North shore
10.1ft @ 12s from 306° (WNW)
4.3ft @ 10s from 315° (NW)

10.1ft @ 13s from 324° (NW)
5.2ft @ 9s from 322° (NW)

9.9ft @ 13s from 334° (NNW)

Don't be fooled by the lack of other periods at the Pauwela buoy, there's plenty other stuff other than 13s as the other buoys show. Plus, with the northerly wind, the ocean will be a complete mess on the north shore today.
Yesterday I posted the Surfline 3 days forecast and you'll remember from it that today the energy is predicted to go down slightly and steadily, but I highly doubt that you guys will be able to notice any difference on the north shore.
Bottom line is: big mess on the north shore all day. Look for a spot that is heavily sheltered and protected, or drive somewhere else like the west side.

Current wind map shows:
1) a very solid WNW fetch (lowest pressure in the middle 957). 8f 16s from 306 predicted by Surfline on Saturday with a much bigger swell after that on Wednesday next week.
2) a close, but weak NNW fetch that should only generated bad chop
3) a lovely NNE fetch. I love that direction because it opens up a plethora of additional spots and options. Related swell only estimated at 2.5f 10s from Friday, but I think it will be bigger than that.

NAM3km map at 7am shows light northerly winds.

Not much changes in the 1pm map, other than a slight rotation in the angle (20 instead of 350 at Hookipa). Obviously, that can still make a big difference for some spots.

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