Thursday, July 26, 2018

Thursday 7 26 18 morning call

A SUP foiling session for me yesterday.

A massive swell is hitting Indonesia at the moment, the start of this post is dedicated to it. This is Mark Healey at Nias. Photo by Ted Grambeau from this Surfline page.

Nias is also the place where this happened. Charter boat off the lip.

This is the forecast for Balangan (a spot in Bali) posted by a friend a few days ago. 15f 20s is something we seldom see even in Hawaii.

The storm that made such a swell is on the left of the map below. The fetch is strong (winds up to 50 knots) and so large that is took most of the southern Indian Ocean.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.2ft @ 17s

1.3ft @ 17s

1.5ft @ 17s

1.1ft @ 13s from 174° (S)
0.8ft @ 18s from 192° (SSW)

1.1ft @ 12s from 167° (SSE)

The directions of the south swells at the outer buoys are so wrong that I decided to stop reporting them. I'll still report size and period and they show lovely low long period energy. That is confirmed by Barbers (the most reliable south exposed local buoy, imo), together with a sliver of lower period leftover energy (which shows also at Lanai).

Even going through the saved fetches maps I couldn't find a certain source for this long period energy, but we'll take it as it is. So today should still have some waves. Knee high stuff from the 12-13s energy and possibly bigger but more inconsistent from the long period one. I will report from there later. Yesterday the knee to waist high waves were still totally enjoyable with glassy conditions all the way in the early afternoon in Lahaina. This has been the most remarkable feature this summer: the frequent lack of the mid morning onshores. No idea how to explain that. Just temporary luck, I think, not a permanent change, I fear.

North shore
3.1ft @ 9s from 85° (E)
2.9ft @ 7s from 71° (ENE)
2.6ft @ 5s from 67° (ENE)
1.7ft @ 11s from 57° (ENE)

A lot of small stuff at Pauwela, the waves should be smaller than yesterday at Hookipa.

Wind map at noon. A little note for the readers who like to check this model on their own. This morning, the maps were not updated if checked with Firefox. The were updated instead if checked (at the same time!) with Chrome. Go figure...

North Pacific's only relevant fetch is the windswell and it's a weak one.

South Pacific has a tiny S fetch.

Morning sky.

No comments: