Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Tuesday 7 31 18 morning call

A longboard session and SUP foiling downwinder attempt n.11 for me yesterday. The usual 4-5 take-offs out of the last one, but always with the feeling of having improved a bit and having figured out something new. The discovery of the day is very counter intuitive, the smaller the valley in front of you, the higher the chances to catch the small bump behind. That's because the small bumps are the active wind chop with a period of 2-3 seconds, while the big ones are the formed windswell of 7-8 seconds and move faster, hence are harder to catch. Thanks Alan for the tip.

Haven't found a decent shareable video of the Molokai to Oahu race yet, here's a short abstract from an article on this page: "Lenny was reportedly clocked traveling at 15 to 18 knots at points during the race". That's like windsurfing speed, very impressive.

Facebook proposed me a memory from 4 years ago (seems to me more than that, maybe it was a repost). This day at Desert Point, I witnessed the most perfect barreling waves I'd ever seen. The price to pay in case of a wipeout is pretty evident.

2am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.6ft @ 15s from 182° (S)

1ft @ 16s from 184° (S)

Today it's Lanai's turn to disappear from the Surfline page, but what we see at W and Barbers indicates the presence of low long period energy. It comes from the fetch on July 24-26 that you can observe in the collage below, which I'm happy to repost for your convenience.
I should be able to report from the Lahaina side pretty early today.

North shore
4.3ft @ 8s from 91° (E)

Windswell still small and from the east at Pauwela, but as mentioned by the NOAA, "Strengthening trades will bring an increase in wind swell today through Thursday along east facing shores. The wind swell is expected to peak Wednesday night and gradually decline through rest of the week."

NON updated wind map at noon.

No help from the Meteogram fetch maps today, I think I still know how to spot a fetch. Pretty easy in this case in the North Pacific, only windswell, but pretty solid.

Yesterday's fetch strengthened a bit in the South Pacific and that is good news. Nothing major, but a decent swell should grace us in a week.

Morning sky.

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