Friday, May 03, 2019

Friday 5 3 19 morning call

Three longboard sessions for me yesterday, during which I caught 2-3 chest high waves, but the rest were knee to waist. Yet, two of the sessions were excellent due to the immaculate conditions at dawn and sunset. Size really doesn't matter (specially if you have the right boards). This is a knee high one around 10am whit a little texture on it.


This is Nick on his Lift e-foil having a blast and catching waves all by himself in the late afternoon. That's about the biggest size I've seen all day on the Lahaina side.


Blog reader James Dawson went to Makena again and took some pictures of the shore break. This is my favorite.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
Barbers
1.1ft @ 15s from 201° (SSW)
0.7ft @ 20s from 203° (SSW)
 
Lanai
1.7ft @ 13s from 194° (SSW)                        
0.6ft @ 20s from 200° (SSW)
 
New low 20s energy at the local buoy. If this is the Fiji swell, what was the 16s energy in the water yesterday? I honestly don't know and without Pat Caldwell shedding light on the subject, I confess I'm often lost in the analysis of the fetches. It's nice to know the origin, but most times it's enough to know what's in the water and for that we have the buoys and now finally also the webcam in Lahaina. From which I took this picture showing a nice set. Obviously, expect low consistency. Do watch the webcam yourself for at least 10 minutes before deciding to go.
 
North shore
NW101
3.1ft @ 12s from 332° (NNW)
 
Hanalei
2.7ft @ 13s from 330° (NW)
 
Waimea
2.5ft @ 13s from 315° (NW)
 
Pauwela
2.9ft @ 9s from 64° (ENE)
2.5ft @ 13s from 319° (NW)
2ft @ 7s from 26° (NNE)
1.6ft @ 5s from 44° (NE)
 
Pretty modest NW energy at the buoys. The Surfline forecast calls for 2.3ft 14s at 6am, so in this case it's pretty accurate, as there's 2.5ft 13s at Pauwela. That, together with the 9s windswell you also see should make for waves in the head high range, but sloppy, but relatively clean seen the absence of wind. Will report around 7am.

Wind map at noon. Notice the onshores on the south shore. Should be calm till 10am.


North Pacific has a distant small NW fetch and a small NNW fetch associated with the local low that is disrupting the trades.


South Pacific has a very remote SW fetch and a small but well positioned S one.


Morning sky shows plenty clouds.


As a consequence, there's some rain around.

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