Happy to share a little technical analysis of a take off I, that I sent to one of my regular surf students:
I was watching the condensed replay of a heat at the recent Haleiwa contest, when I noticed Ryan Callinan doing something we've talked about already. I took four shapshots to show you how he's looking down the line while he's paddling, then he looks at the landing spot of the take off for less than a second, just to have a last minute view at how it looks down there, and then as soon as he pops up on his feet, he's already looking again down the line. He'll keep his eyes on the place where he wants to go throughout the whole wave, including the turns.
You can check the wave in the video at around minute 1:25.
Also, notice how he put his right hand a bit more forward than usual, because he needed to push the nose down the wave to make sure he caught it.
AND, by doing so, he also enabled his front hip to come up a bit more forward than his left one, hence facilitating the pop up.
AND, by doing so, he also engaged the inside rail already, so that the board will start cutting across the open face even before he's up. Not all waves require that, only the ones peeling fast down the line.
See how many important little things he achieved just by placing his front hand a bit more forward (and loading it with the right amount of weight)!
3 am significant buoy readings and discussion.
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, check the Lahaina webcam to see if there's any ripples.
8.1ft @ 13s from 316° (NW)
5.1ft @ 15s from 307° (WNW)
6.2ft @ 10s from 64° (ENE)
Below are the fetch maps of Nov 24 and 25. Red circles indicate the direct aim, blue circles, the possible angular spreading.
High Tide High Tide Low Tide Low Tide Sunrise Sunset
3:16a +2.8 2:02p +1.5 9:39a +0.9 8:30p -0.4 6:45a 5:45p
North Pacific has a small NNW fetch and the windswell one. The first one will intensify in the next couple of days and give life to the weekends N swell which is now predicted to peak at 10ft 16s Sunday night. Almost guaranteed that Sunday/Monday are going to be contest days at Honolua.
Tiny little fetch in the Tasman Sea. Too small to do anything for us.