Uff, that's big!

Lanes looked pretty good.

Good luck with that duck dive...

The sun came out of the clouds for a few minutes and it turned the white water into snow.

On the way back to Maliko.
A few teams were tow surfing at Noriega. They scored some epic, very long rights... but with the help of the jet ski... that's cheating! Cheat-surfing, that's how they should call it.

Nice light on this set.

Nice drop by Alan.

Lanes' line up in the sunset light.

I didn't see any girl out in the water. So, that's what you get...

In the morning, after 11 days of rest, I ventured out at Kanaha standing up on the 12.6. I had a very mellow session, without pushing too hard and it was allright. Still far away from full recovery, but... hey, back in da woda!
I had my little water proof camera with me and I took a few photos.
Even though it's not horizontal, I like this one because it shows the glassyness of the water, the cruise ship in the Kahului harbor, Wailuku and the Iao valley. Oh, and my friend Bill, of course.

I was sitting on the board when I took this one, and, as you can easily imagine, I got nicely worked by that friendly wave...

Here's Bill again. He was one of the first to surf G-Land in Indonesia quite a few years ago. I must have him tell me that story one of this days... I'm sure it will make an interesting post.
Anyway, I took this one while I was riding the same wave in front of him. Does he look like he's having fun or what?

I got out of the water without having taken any photos of girls, but Bella was on the beach getting ready to go out. I had my board on my head and I said:
"Bella, would you please hold the front of my board?"
"Sure", she said, "why?"
"'Cause I need my hands free to take a photo of you!"
She smiled.

Allright, time to go to sleep. Goodnight.
3 comments:
Some decent size in the swell GP, keep up the good work.
Lano
hey I was out a ho'okipa - but in disguise with my shorts!! (and at middles, too chicken for the point). I decided after talking to you to go anyway as the drive and paddle to kanaha seemed more effort than getting pounded at ho'okipa. Anyway, I had a blast. Best session todate this winter. Ulli snapped his board like a toothpick!!
see you on da woda!!
You guys are hard core!
Sorry for Ulli's board. Not surprised, though, seen the size of those waves...
I expect to see a photo of the half board on your blog soon.
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