Thursday, June 07, 2018

Thursday 6 7 18 morning call

A longboard session for me yesterday that felt amazingly good as it was the first time I could stand up on a surfboard after 2 weeks.

This morning I woke up to the sad news of the death of ex pro-windsurfer and great waterman Sierra Emory. Photo by Erik Aeder. Enjoy each single moment of this wonderful life, you never go when we're gonna go.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
2.4ft @ 12s from 146° (SE)

SW
2.3ft @ 12s from 127° (ESE)

SE
2ft @ 12s from 138° (SE)

Barbers
2ft @ 12s from 138° (SE)

South swell down to 12s. Yesterday it was knee to waist high with occasional belly high sets, today probably just knee to occasional waist high. I'll try to report early, as I have a foil lesson on that side.
A new long period swell is predicted to hit tomorrow, starting at 20s.

North shore
Pauwela
5.2ft @ 8s from 78° (ENE)
2.4ft @ 12s from 337° (NNW)

Little mix of windswell and NNW energy at Pauwela, Hookipa looked waist to shoulder high yesterday at sunset from the distance.

One day old wind map at noon.


North Pacific only shows a small windswell fetch, but a forming low in the NW corner will send some weak NW energy starting tomorrow.


South Pacific has some winds around New Zealand (like in the past couple of days) and a massive storm way down south. This last one has a fetch oriented towards us, but most of the energy will go to central and south America. Hopefully we'll get some angular spreading. Tough swell to predict, as that thing is way more south than usual. We'll do the old school "wait and see what we get" on this one.


Morning sky.

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