Wednesday 6 26 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a longboard session for me yesterday. First one was more fun, but second one was while teaching this beautiful friend of mine, so no complains there.


Starting to go left and right is always a major breakthrough. I explained her that in order for that to happen, she needs to catch the wave in the right spot. The explanation of what the right spot looks like, is always a challenge.



2am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.7ft @ 14s from 138° (SE)

SW
3.5ft @ 14s from 173° (S)

SE
2.8ft @ 14s from 173° (S)

Barbers
2.2ft @ 15s from 188° (S)                      

0.8ft @ 20s from 188° (S)

 

Bigger numbers at the buoys today, as this first pulse of southerly energy peaks. Barbers already shows almost a foot of a new longer period pulse, all is going according to the forecast.

Which, BTW, was also the case for the past couple of days, despite the comments of most surfers in the lineup: "The swell not here yet!"... really? what are you surfing then? Isn't knee high and 16 seconds a swell? "The swell is not as big as I imagined yet" would be a more correct statement. Humans are very good at creating their own unhappiness by making up high expectations for everything.

Yesterday late morning the bigger sets were pushing waist high, so I expect today the size to be thigh to waist with occasional belly to chest high sets. I'll post updates during the morning, not sure what time, as I might do the drive in the dark and won't be able to see much.

North shore
Pauwela

6.4ft @ 8s from 65° (ENE)

 

Also today the windswell will provide the Hookipa surfers with plenty waves to fight for at Pavillions (by far the most crowded spot on the island in summer time). Should be good windsurfing in the afternoon and pretty fun sunset foiling conditions too.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific only has a well oriented windswell fetch.


South Pacific pretty active with a smaller but closer fetch and a bigger, partially oriented to the east of us and more remote one. Distance plays a major role in the decaying of the energy when the waves travel, so I expect the waves coming from the first one to be slightly shorter period, but bigger.


Morning sky.