Wednesday, January 23, 2019

Wednesday 1 23 19 morning call

A shortboard and a windsurf session for me yesterday. These are the fun waves that were on tap in the morning.


And these are the same fun waves on tap for the windsurfing action. I enjoyed my early session, here's the gallery by Jimmie Hepp.


Probably from the day before yesterday, but this shot of Dave Kalama by Chris Pagdilao is pretty sick.


A "stop everything you're doing and grab the camera" moment.


BTW, Monday I spent from 7am to 3.30pm at Hookipa (I left only to go for session n.4 somewhere else) and nonetheless I managed to miss Kai Lenny and Kelly Slater that showed up around 4pm. When is that going to happen again?!

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys

North shore
NW101
11.3ft @ 16s from 302° (WNW)

Hanalei
6.3ft @ 18s from 312° (NW)
5.9ft @ 13s from 309° (WNW)

Waimea
2.8ft @ 14s from 306° (WNW)
2.7ft @ 18s from 308° (WNW)
2.6ft @ 13s from 320° (NW)
2.3ft @ 10s from 322° (NW)

Pauwela
5ft @ 12s from 333° (NNW)
4.2ft @ 9s from 71° (ENE)
1.6ft @ 20s from 325° (NW)
 
New large swell on the rise today, on top of the medium one that rose during the night. There have been multiple fetches (all pretty westerly) lately and that explains the number of overlapping episodes. Below is the collage of the graphs of NW, Hanalei and Pauwela, that should help clarify the situation. Let's start from Pauwela: the blue arrow points to the blue line representing yesterday's swell that during the night grew up to the 5ft 12s of this morning. That's going to be in the background, while a new bigger and much longer period one will "try" to rise.
Let me explain the "try".

The red arrows indicate the moment when this swell reached 4f 18s at the NW and Hanalei buoys. As indicated in the epic post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines, the travel times are respectively 14 and 7 hours (yes, Hanalei is roughly mid way). As a matter of fact, there's a perfect 7 hours difference between the moment the two buoys registered such reading (5pm and midnight). That is based on the assumption that the energy dissipation between one buoy and the other is negligible, which might as well be close to true in the case of NW and Hanalei and an 18s swell.
All this would make us think that at 7am in Maui we should se 4f 18s too, but because of the westerly original direction of the swell, that might be easily cut in half by the refraction that the swell needs to do on Kauai, Oahu and Molokai in order to reach Pauwela. We'll find out at 7am I guess, what counts is that the waves will pick up (more or less) all day today. I hope I'll be able to report from Hookipa before 7.30.



Wind map at noon. Should be calm down the coast till 10.

North Pacific has the "usual" WNW fetch and an easterly windswell one.


Nice strong storm south of New Zealand, we should get something out of the unblocked fetch SE of it.


Morning sky.

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