It was 7am of december 26 and I was going to Kanaha to surf. The first hour I was out with three other guys. The second hour I was completely alone. Head high surf and offshore wind. I just couldn't believe it!
Probably everybody was sleeping in or digesting... or maybe spooked out by the super murky water you could see at kite beach because of the heavy night rains (I heard north Kihei got flooded).
Anyway, I am absolutely loving this windless december. It reminds me of last winter...
Yesterday (27) I had three sessions (and I even worked!) and today looks like I'll be in the water at 6.30 again to catch the remaining of the N swell, before a new NW swell will fill in the afternoon.
The rib is still a bit sore, but I can surf. Life is great.
3 comments:
Hey GP. Where did you go to get your ribs looked at? My mate has had the same thing happen and it sounds like he needs to go to the same fella. If you could please let me know that would be choice! Cheers, Tim
Hey Tim, email me for that.
Lovely cloud formation - not your usual photographic shoot.
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