Sunday, March 06, 2011

20 waves a day keep the doctor away

Surfing has been off the hook lately.

So many good sessions, it's hard to remember them all.
All I can say is that every time I counted the waves I caught in a session, they were always at least 20. So I decided to set a new self-imposed rule: no matter the discipline, I'd like to catch at least 20 waves a day.

Feeling the need of creating some mediatic memory of this amazing spell of great surf, yesterday afternoon I took out the longboard after a while I didn't use it. As the lame cutback attempt in wave five shows, it took me a little to get used again to the lenght.
Didn't count the waves since I had already caught my 20 in the morning sesh, but, amazingly enough, when I counted the waves at home watching the gopro clips, they were exactly 20!
Here they are all of them, good and bad ones. Some were big double overhead closeouts (the sixth and the last one), some were shoulder high peelers (unfortunately the gopro makes them look ALL the same size), but all of them were fun and made me a better surfer.

Another interesting statistic. Out of a two hours/20 waves session, the total amount of time in which I was actually standing on the board and actively riding a wave is 3 minutes 22 seconds. That's one of the reasons why surfing has such a slow learning curve.

Notice also the beauty of the grey sky. I absolutely love to surf in no wind and light rain... keeps the waves clean and uncrowded!

Couple of days ago, instead, I had time between sessions to take some photos.

Unusual vision in Maui. Those navy ships (sorry, I hate everything that's related to war) were the most annoying vision in Oahu.

Do you like pink?

Another gopro user.

Or do you prefere yellow?

Ok, I'll give you both.

The trade winds are coming back today. I'm already missing the glassy waves but, as a friend said during a session lately, "surfing glassy waves is way better than windsurfing... but when it's windy, windsurfing is way better than surfing windy waves!"
Agree 100%!
And, as I said already in another post, doesn't matter the conditions... as long as I'm on a wave, I'm happy.
See you out there!

1 comment:

David said...

I really liked the video!! It was simply the right music for this type of footage!