Sunday, February 21, 2016

2 21 16 morning cal

I had a sunrise and a sunset session yesterday.

First one was fun, second one was ridiculously fun.
The point at sunset was magic. In the last hour, I didn't see one bad wave come through. Three young gorgeous girls ripping, everybody catching waves, even I had three decent turns on a right and that is a first, for sure!

Head high is my favorite size, but judging from the smiles I saw all around, it must be everybody's favorite size too.
This photo is from the day before and it shows a smaller wave, but it does render how fun the conditions have been. Because when you've been surfing big waves for so many sessions, smashing lips feels good. Surfer Jason Hall, photo by John Hall.

Everybody wants to know what know what time the big swell is going to hit today. Not sure where you read that, the answer is: no time. The swell in Maui is going to hit tomorrow. Well, at least the long period part of it.
Below the graph of the NW and Pauwela buoys at 5am. NW only shows short interval rising (it's in the middle of the head of the fetch's strong wind):
7.2ft @ 9s from 334° (NNW)
6.1ft @ 7s from 306° (WNW)
Remember GP's rule of thumb for calculating the travel times? 12h at 18s, 15h at 15, 18h at 12s. That 9s energy started to climb around midnight and will take more than 18h to get here. It seems to me that we won't see anything at all of it today.
Well, thank god, because that is going to be rough stuff that will ruin the excellent quality of the waves we had in the past couple of days.

So what do we surf today?
4.3ft @ 11s from 11° (NNE), that's what we surf. And with the kona wind, the rights on the north shore are going to be even more perfect. I'll be out at dawn, trying to beat the crowd and the stronger wind.

Wind map shows the monster fetch now really close to the island. Much further away, monster fetch number two is approaching very fast. Soon the two lows are going to start their Fujiwara dance (thanks to the readers for comments and emails for that name). Exciting times ahead for a guy who likes meteorology and surfing like me.

Little fetch down south, not shooting exactly at us and not particularly intense, I don't think it will do much, but it's worth to check Barbers in a week.

Are they ever gonna fix MC2km? I hope so, because I miss it a lot. Windity closeup shows a perfect direction for kona wind sailing in the afternoon.

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