10 14 16 morning call

Two short surf sessions and a lovely windsurfing one was my action in the water yesterday. But I was off all day so I went to Honolua to took some photos.

Here's my favorite.


It reminds me of a photo of Ala Moana published by the Honoluly Advertiser many years ago. The title was "three guys in the barrel".



That photo will stay forever in my memory cells. Unless I'll get Alzheimer's, of course. But I won't, because Dr. Greger showed me how to avoid it. Actually it showed everybody at the Cameron Center yesterday that if you eat a whole plants based diet, you'll avoid the top 15 causes of death. All of them.

Sorry about this non surfing related topic, but Dr. Greger is my favorite human being on the planet and this is his 2016 year review speech in which he summarizes all the conclusion of the latest scientific studies that he and his team read so that... we don't have to! It's 1h 22m, but watch it if you don't want that your death will because of your own fault.
I'm a subscriber of his website and I receive an email with the link to a video (a short one, this time) every single day.

Back to the Honolua shots, chronological order now, starting from a little barrel about to happen at The Point. You can see the difference in size with the Cave in the next shots.

She's actually sitting on her board. Guess that's one way to you hold your rail when you're front side.

 

 Last but not least, ex pro surfer Megan Abubo had one of the best waves of my photoshoot session. Here's she's setting up the check turn.

And here she's about to get barreled.

So do those waves look like the 5-6 feet faces that the Surfline spot forecast was predicting for Honolua? Oh, btw I did check the Kahului harbor too. It was barely one foot. Anyway, the message is again: don't check ANY local spot forecast. Check the open ocean swell forecast and learn what that mean for you spot(s).

Meanwhile at Hookipa the windsurfers were putting up the usual show. This photo from this gallery by Jimmie Hepp shows some size. And the one off the back is bigger.

 

Didn't I say at one point that Hookipa was going to be too big yesterday?

I did. And it would have if the forecast was going to be true. But it wasn't. Instead of 10f 16s, the Pauwela buoy only went up to a maximum of 7 feet (but mostly around 6). The N buoy instead went all the way up to 11f at one point. Where did all that energy go? It missed us to the east.

I went down and retrieved the buoy photo that I posted yesterday, so that you... don't have to!

Where the N buoy is the swell was 11f. Where the Pauwela and Waimea and even NW buoys are it was only 6f. How much do you think it was where the big X is? More than 11f, most likely.

 

Significant buoy readings 4am.

Lanai

2.3ft @ 13s from 279° (W)

Lanai buoy overwhelmed by some kind of westerly wrap, it doesn't say us how much energy we have from the south. The webcam will.

NW
5.3ft @ 12s from 329° (NW)

N
8ft @ 14s from 325° (NW)

Waimea
5.1ft @ 13s from 332° (NNW)

Pauwela

5ft @ 14s from 328° (NW)

4.1ft @ 7s from 74° (ENE)

 

Swell on the slow decline as the graph of the N buoy on the left shows, but still plenty energy in the water for today.

Current wind map only shows an average NW fetch to keep things rolling.


Updated MC2km map at noon shows some wind.


Updated MC2km map at 2pm shows even more wind.