Monday, December 17, 2018

Monday 12 17 18 morning call

A shortboard session for me yesterday. Here's an image of a lonely surfer at Hookipa by Jimmie Hepp.

This is Honolua in the morning sent to me from a friend of mine (in case you missed the report I posted at 9.30am). Most spots in Maui (and Oahu, as the Pipe contest clearly showed!) were suffering from the 18s period, Honolua instead loves it. Pretty much the higher the better over there.

3-4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
6.6ft @ 14s from 327° (NW)

8ft @ 14s from 324° (NW)
4.5ft @ 11s from 336° (NNW)
1.3ft @ 10s from 348° (NNW)
9.4ft @ 14s from 323° (NW)
9.1ft @ 14s from 328° (NW)
2.8ft @ 13s from 333° (NNW)
1.8ft @ 6s from 72° (ENE)
Below is the graph of NW and Pauwela buoys and the Surfline offshore swell forecast (link n.15). Notice how the first one had a pretty well defined peak at 12f 14s around 9am. 14s take 18h to get here, so that would suggest a similar peak around 3am locally, which would be in line with the forecast too. But looking at the Waimea and Hanalei readings, it seems that the swell should stay pretty steady for most of the day. Interesting and hard to explain, we'll know tomorrow how it went. It won't matter too much for most people, as 7 or 9 feet at 14s both mean fairly big waves.
One thing for sure: the contest at Pipeline will have much better waves than yesterday. That doesn't take much, as, imo, it was a pretty bad call to run it in conditions that offered for 90% of the times 18s stretched out closeouts with competitors winning heats on incomplete rides (must be the trend of the year!) and total heat scores of 3-4 points.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific keeps providing another beautiful NW fetch.

Nothing of relevance from the South Pacific.

Morning sky.

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