Saturday, December 15, 2018

Saturday 12 15 18 morning call

A longboard, a windsurf and two shortboard sessions for me yesterday to celebrate a day characterized by sunshine and an incredible light. The Haleakala looked amazing from the ocean. All the session where within 1 mile from my house and that was nice. Last summer was fantastic, but I still like winter better. Here's some gopro shots that show those colors.

The wind got lighter for about 40 minutes around 2pm and Middles looked pretty good. Of course, by the time I paddled out, it started blowing 25 again, but I still enjoyed the challenge (and the view).

Leaving Hookipa, I quickly took a photo of the windsurfing action mostly to show the size of the waves. Vicky.

The sky was still completely clear of clouds all the way to sunset.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
4.6ft @ 12s from 346° (NNW)

5.9ft @ 13s from 331° (NNW)            
0.2ft @ 20s from 30° (NNE)
4.8ft @ 13s from 338° (NNW)
5.2ft @ 13s from 331° (NNW)
3.9ft @ 10s from 27° (NNE)
3.5ft @ 7s from 77° (ENE)
2.3ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)
The NW pulse that arrived yesterday brought some lovely 15s sets in the lineups. Today it's down to 13s, but 5.2f is still a very fun size, It's going to stay pretty steady all day, eventually losing a second in the period towards the end of the day. Let me point out the fact that Hanalei feels a sliver of 20s energy. As we have learned, whatever the real cause is (buoy or Surfline's algorithm), the direction indication can be totally wrong in these cases. That might hence be a sign of forerunning energy of the next extra-large swell that is predicted for Sunday/Monday. No sign of it at the NW buoy yet, so it's hard to predict the arrival time in Maui, but I'm going to say that not much should be seen locally today. Eventually some small sets at sunset. That is confirmed by the Surfline forecast (link n. 15) that sees the swell picking up during the night.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has a new born low that has a WNW fetch. The older, much stronger one north of us is now almost entirely aiming at the Mainland west coast. They're having a pretty good winter over there too.

Nothing from the south.

Morning sky.

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