Friday, December 28, 2018

Friday 12 28 18 morning call

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Yesterday morning my ribs weren't too painful and the waves were gorgeous, so I couldn't resist the call and had a shortboard and a SUP foiling session. That was a bad idea, as this morning the ribs are significantly worse than they were yesterday. GP, you're injured and you got to stay put, no matter how good the waves are. This over exposed shot of Ian Walsh is all I have to document the surfing conditions at Hookipa yesterday morning.

Actually, what am I talking about, I got plenty gopro material. First wave of the day was good one.

That's a heavy lip trying to take me out.

No wonder I look happy I escaped it. Hawaiian snow.

And here's a ride.

Afterwards I taught a SUP foiling lesson and after that I had a lovely session myself. On this wave I try to talk over for teaching purposes, since you can't see anything of what I'm doing.

This photo by Chris illustrates a cut back from Dave Kalama. As I was saying in the talk over video above, cutbacks while foiling require bending both knees and keeping the board low to the water. The acceleration you get out of a change of direction, in fact, will make the foil want to come out unless you compensate by pushing it down. There's three angles in foiling: pitch, roll and yaw. IMO, the perfect foiling cutback is the one where once you set those angles at the beginning of it, you don't have to adjust throughout it. That results in a beautiful flow and lack of speed dissipation. Dave Kalama is a master at that. 90% of his cutbacks are like that. Every time I foil with him, I get better just by watching him. Unfortunately, as soon as he leaves, I regress to my original skill level...

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys

North shore
11.2ft @ 17s from 329° (NW)

10.7ft @ 17s from 314° (NW)

7.6ft @ 17s from 310° (WNW)

4.8ft @ 18s from 317° (NW)
4.8ft @ 9s from 78° (ENE)
2ft @ 12s from 328° (NW)
New large long period NW swell on the rise. Below are the graphs of the reported buoys plus the Surfline forecast. They all have a different scale, so I reported the upper end of it in red. Notice how accurate the Surfline forecast is in this case, as it was reporting 5f 18s in the early morning, which is exactly what we have at Pauwela. That also means that the swell is going to keep building all day. The forecast calls for 8.5f 16s at sunset.
Let's also not forget the ENE windswell that will hit the easterly exposures.
Wind map at noon. Notice the onshores on Oahu that should coincide with the arrival of a front.
Here's the Big Blue satellite shot that shows the front.
Comes with some rain.
North Pacific has a wide WNW fetch and a weak NNW and E windswell ones. The section of the first one that is more west than 300 will get mostly blocked by the upstream islands. Nonetheless, Surfline has this swell at 9f 16s on Wednesday and 10f 15s on Thursday.
South Pacific has a small/weak S fetch.
Morning sky shows the big clouds over to the west.

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