Monday 6 11 18 morning call

A prone foiling and a sup foiling session for me yesterday, in the first day in which I didn't think about my leg at all. If there really was a hair line fracture, that must have been a pretty thin hair. Stoked with the quick recovery, it happened only 16 days ago. The human body is amazing.

Talking about human bodies, here's an extremely fit one. It belongs to the Hookipa lifeguard Donovan, whom I had the pleasure to share a really fun session with. This is the end of a moderately long pump to keep riding the bump (it's not by chance that those two words rhyme), and look at the physical effort expressed by his face. This stuff is a lot of work, you guys.
Extremely centered and composed stance with perfect foot placement.
Those KT foil boards look beautiful, btw. We have them for sale at Hi-Tech.


 Here's another one, this time ridden by Pato.

Randy bottom turning his new Kalama 5.10.


Young ripper Gabe Girardin looked very smooth out there.

3-4am significant buoy readings
South shoreW
3.2ft @ 14s from 143° (SE)

SW
3.2ft @ 14s from 143° (SE)

SE
2.8ft @ 13s from 151° (SSE)

Barbers Point buoy not available again after only 4 days of being back, we'll leave with the outer ones which indicate the predicted decrease in both size and period of the south swell. Milk it until it lasts, as the Surfline forecast calls for a spot on 3f 14s today, going down to 2f tomorrow.

Yesterday I spent the whole day at Thousand Peaks and seen the non enthusiastic reports I received from both Lahaina and Makena, it must have been the spot that focused the energy better. But the big sets were closing out at the main peaks, so the conditions were poor for surfing, IMO. Pretty good for foiling, instead. With today's numbers, it should be a lot smaller but better shape over there. I'll do a beach report as soon as I can, but I'm expecting waist to occasionally shoulder high at most.

Here's a map that shows that the shadow of Kahoolawe for Thousand Peaks is between 170 and 200 degrees. We can say it's pretty much right in front of it. Yesterday morning Barbers reading was from 180, so you would expect a lot of energy to be blocked, and yet it was one of the biggest spots. Go figure. But that's why I never trust too much the direction indication of the buoys. I trust much more the position of the fetch, if I have it (I didn't in this case, as I was still on the road when it happened).


The new moon tide in June is one of the strongest of all year. Here's the week for the Lahaina side. Link n.12 is my favorite tide website. Somehow it doesn't work on my phone (it shows me San Francisco tides), so I use 12b for that (Kahului only).



North shore
Pauwela
4.8ft @ 8s from 88° (E)

Windswell only at Pauwela, Hookipa was waist to shoulder high and windy at sunset yesterday.

Wind map at noon.

 

North Pacific looking good with:

- a micro W fetch

- a pretty decent NW fetch

- a now weak N fetch
- a windswell fetch
- a couple of tropical storms forming off Baja

The two most westerly lows are even going to do an attempt to a mini Fujiwara effect in the next few days. The result will be a weakening of the trades towards the end of the week.



 

 

South Pacific shows the same fetch we observed yesterday still nicely in place.

 

 

Morning sky.