A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. This is the deceiving semi-perfection of Hookipa. It was only the 7 that I gave it. Plus the crowd.
This is an above average peelers at Middles. After surfing it and having very little fun because of the crowd, I surfed a spot that was waist high and uncrowded and had much more fun.
Harbor was providing the usual foiling perfect conditions. Here's a first clip of Kane.
Kai Lenny took someone out on his ski.
Kane's rail grab.
Tow foiling seems to be the "thing" of the moment. Many teams were out, these are the Lickle's.
Here's another clip of Kane.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
Lanai
1.5ft @ 15s from 255° (WSW)
The only possible reading indicating southerly energy is the one I reported, even though it has a weird (probably wrong) direction. If that's the "continuation" of yesterday's 1.5ft @ 17s from 225° (SW), there should still be waves on the south shore today. Yesterday I was told it was another beautiful waist high day.
North shore
NW001
12.6ft @ 14s from 347° (NNW)
5.9ft @ 10s from 346° (NNW)
5.5ft @ 8s from 345° (NNW)
Hanalei
5.4ft @ 10s from 329° (NW)
4.8ft @ 7s from 329° (NW)
3.9ft @ 14s from 317° (NW)
Waimea
4.3ft @ 12s from 332° (NNW)
Pauwela
4.8ft @ 12s from 332° (NNW)
2.4ft @ 14s from 329° (NW)
The most significant readings this morning are the ones of the NW buoy. I reported its graph below together with the Pauwela one and the Surfline forecast. As you can see, it only started to ramp up during the night. Let's say it was around 10 feet 14s at midnight (red arrow), by applying GP's rule of thumb for the travel time (16h @16s +1h/-1s and viceversa), we should see the equivalent of that only after 18h, which is 6pm. I then drew a dotted line on Pauwela's graph to reflect that and it came out pretty similar to the Surfline graph which, imo, remains the most reliable forecast on the internet. As long as you only check the open ocean swell and completely disregard the specific spots forecasts which, still imo, are completely useless.
In the end, what time the big waves will show up doesn't mean much for most of us. The conditions will be pretty horrible on the north shore because of the onshore post-front winds (already 12mph in Kahului at 6am, so no clean dawn conditions unfortunately) and the mix of periods. But nonetheless, do expect the waves to start increasing significantly only in the afternoon.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific has the nearby very long fetch that now has an exciting N component stretching all the way to the Kurils. The small but intense NW one will be the one responsible for Thursday's swell.
Nothing from the South.
Morning sky shows the front which is right on top of us at 5am.
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