Saturday 5 4 19 morning call

Two longboard sessions for me yesterday. I don't have a photo of the day. I could have used one of Kai Lenny or Andrea Moeller who both won XXL awards or of Sunny Garcia who, on the opposite side of the man/mind made highs and lows, tried to kill himself instead. Despite the biggest respect and appreciation that I have for what they do/did when they're in the water, I'll stick to the waves and post this photo that came up in my Facebook memories. That perfect wave behind me is Macaroni's and the two posts describing my 2017 Mentawai trip are here, in case you're looking for something to read.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No need to look at the buoys, the south shore is junk today, due to the Kona wind.

North shore
NW101
3.9ft @ 10s from 347° (NNW)

Hanalei
3.1ft @ 12s from 327° (NW)

Waimea
2.5ft @ 11s from 320° (NW)

Pauwela
2.2ft @ 12s from 335° (NNW)

2.1ft @ 10s from 42° (NE)

1.3ft @ 7s from 50° (NE)

1.2ft @ 3s from 172° (S)

North shore will be the only place where to possibly surf today (although relatively small), as long as you hit it before the Kona gets too strong. Below is the wind map at 8am that already shows too much of it. Will report from Hookipa hopefully around 6.30am.


Even stronger at noon.


North Pacific has the fetches you see circled. Unfortunately tomorrow we're going to be immersed in the southern tip of the nearby NW one and it's going to be the north shore's turn to be turned into junk.


South Pacific is seriously stirring waters, but only with a small portion of winds oriented towards us. The low indicated with the big red L is going to deepen and hopefully provide us with a fetch of remarkable intensity and remoteness. I'm gonna guess 26+s readings at the buoys next weekend for the forerunners of a swell that should become the largest of the season so far. Remember my rule though: never-ever, under any circumstances, get excited for a south swell.


Morning sky shows the south flank of the low over Kauai and approaching Oahu.


And that's where the rain is at the moment. According to Windguru, we'll get some tonight.