Exactly one week ago I had a fantastic day of surfing.
The video below is made by clips taken in the morning session.
Then in the late afternoon, I went out again on my SUP (too tired to lay down paddle) and stayed out till dark thanks to an amazing full moon that rose just by sunset time.
Later on the same day, I gathered with some friends and we played some music with guitars and ukuleles.
I got intrigued by a chord progression of a song called "One night stand" and, not knowing at all the original, I played those four chords with my own rhythm, strumming and I even improvised some words.
My surfing, on a board that was snapped in two pieces and I put together all by myself, with a melody that I made and that I played and sang in a video that I filmed and edited... almost everything I can do is in this video! :)
All I hope is that you guys can get some of my stoke out of it...
A few details.
1) the chord progression is: G Bm C Dm7. Actually the original had a Bm7 instead of a Bm, but my fingers are too fat for that...
2) fellow surfers, please note how many times I look left AND right when I paddle for my first wave. That is to make sure that I'm in the right place at the right time and to check what the wave is doing, but ALSO to make sure that no one else is going to paddle for that wave, so that I won't drop in on anybody.
Also, notice how often I check the inside to make sure I can avoid the surfers paddling out. When you surf, you need to have 360 degrees of awareness.
By having spotted way in advance the girl paddling out in front of me, I was able to decide my line, throw a decent (for my standards) cut back at sec. 22 and go around her without being a danger for her and without having her ruining my line.
3) if you want to learn how to nose ride, DO NOT imitate what I do on my second wave. Rather read what Dave Kalama says in this post on his blog...
PS. One field in which my creativity didn't sparkle, is DSLR photography.
I'm selling this Canon 20D with EF-S 18-55 lens with battery charger, manuals, original SW, extra book, extra dvd, extra case for $300. Email is on the right.