Tuesday, November 17, 2015

11 17 15 morning call

I'm gonna open this call with a collection of barreling waves.
First one is from John Patao and it's a wave on a Maui's east facing shore. I believe it's from yesterday, and he got the light just perfect.
 Second one is a shore break on Maui's south shore and I believe it's from yesterday too (but not sure). Photo by OneMore Foto.

Third one is from Tahiti from my friend Ben Thouard. It's kinda surreal and that's the comment I left when I first saw it on facebook:
unbelievable: a barrel on top of a massive barrel! That is incredible.
IMO, that means that the mass of the lip of the lower massive barrel felt like the bottom of the ocean for whatever energy was still travelling faster at the top of the wave and made it barrel too.
Or maybe is something else, but whatever it is, this is magnificent.

And after this abundance of barrels, here's how Pipeline looked on the Surfline webcam at 7am this morning.

There's barrels and waves also today in Hawaii. You just need to know what's in the water and go to the right spot. Ideally, you want to remember the recent history of the fetches, but if you can't do that, you just check the buoys and voila', you know what's going on. So here we go.

Buoys 6am
6.6ft @ 10s from 108° (ESE)
5ft @ 7s from 127° (ESE)
1.7ft @ 17s from 190° (S)

6.7ft @ 10s from 107° (ESE)
3.3ft @ 5s from 106° (ESE)
1.4ft @ 17s from 290° (WNW)

6.3ft @ 9s from 79° (ENE)           
1.6ft @ 4s from 66° (ENE)
0.9ft @ 16s from 35° (NE)
4.3ft @ 9s from 39° (NE)
0.8ft @ 16s from 309° (WNW)
6.4ft @ 9s from 72° (ENE)
3.8ft @ 5s from 75° (ENE)
1.2ft @ 16s from 38° (NE)
2.6ft @ 7s from 149° (SE)
1.3ft @ 12s from 182° (S)
1ft @ 16s from 205° (SSW)
No WNW energy from the fetch we observed yesterday at the NW buoy just yet.
Weeks ago, Pat Caldwell mentioned that the N buoy is adrift and west of the NW buoy (kinda confusing, isn't it). Well, that would justify that 1.4ft @ 17s from 290° (WNW) reading on it.
That is the swell the Haleiwa contest organizers are waiting for, but it's gonna arrive in Oahu too late and it's too west (shadowed by Kauai). As a matter of fact, the contest was called off for today. They're gonna run it Wednesday and Thursday and then they better start praying for some surf...
Absolutely nothing of it showing up in Maui today either. But 6.4ft (on the decrease) @ 9s from 72° (ENE) are still fun if you know where to go.
South shore shows minimal energy, check the webcam before going.
I was actually expecting a bit more from this fetch that was on Nov 10th map below, but the long travel takes its toll.

Trades today are going to be slightly more offshore than yesterday. Notice the difference (specially in Kanaha) between the two MC2km maps below. One is 10am, the other is 2pm.

 Bad news for the north shores: the fetch of the "Haleiwa contest swell" today offers a pretty weak section of winds oriented towards us (still good for the Marshalls, if you look at the more northerly component of it). Unless this fetch does something different than what forecasted for the next few days, this is gonna be a two days swell, I'm afraid.
Little fetch down south, not gonna do too much for us but it will keep this extremely long south shore season going.
Here's what uncle Pat said about it:"The southern hemisphere has had an active austral spring mode sept into November keeping above average consistency and size to southerly surf in Hawaii. Low pressure sources are gradually weakening as austral summer approaches, but remain in prime location to make at least small surf for Hawaii. "


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