Tuesday, November 24, 2015

11 24 15 morning call

Another epic day of surfing on Maui's north shore thanks to another full day of light kona.

The light kona in Maui does what the trades do to Oahu's north shore... sideoff, just from the other side.
I remember a winter a few years ago (maybe 3?) that saw an incredible number of light kona days and that was sure a rarity. The kona wind, in fact, is usually associated with a passing front and as such tends to intensify when the front gets closer. While it is for windsurfing, strong kona is not good for surfing (any strong wind isn't), so that year we were blessed. Let's hope for more of these days this winter. Possibly after I heal, thanks.

In the meantime, the photographers at Hookipa are enjoying the presence of the pro ladies. Here's the stunning Tatiana Weston-Webb in a photo by Jimmie Hepp. Here's his album from yesterday.

What looks like a sea monster in the wave is clearly a water photog instead and, as a friend of mine commented, I wouldn't mind checking out that shot!

Buoys 5am
5.7ft @ 11s from 356° (N)
3.9ft @ 10s from 8° (N)
2.8ft @ 6s from 336° (NNW)

2.7ft @ 13s from 328° (NW)
2.6ft @ 10s from 338° (NNW)

3.7ft @ 12s from 328° (NW)
3.2ft @ 9s from 60° (ENE)
1.7ft @ 10s from 341° (NNW)

Still a bit shocked at the buoy numbers for this swell. Definitely more action today, despite the period going slightly down. At least before the wind turns onshore, as predicted by both models at the bottom of the windguru page. MC2km page not uploaded yet, check it later if you want to know exactly when that is going to happen.

Both the switch of direction of the wind and the abundant rain in those forecasts are due to the arrival of the front that caused those two magic days of kona. Here's the satellite pic at 5am. It's a weak front, that's why the kona was light.

Wind map shows three fetches:
1) one just off Japan. Too west for Maui at the moment, but it will move east and get into a much better position. This is the fetch that will generate the weekend big swell. Yesterday's NW fetch instead moved north of the Kurils and weakened.
2) a weak but close one NNW of us to keep things rolling
3) a strong NNE one from which we might get some angular spreading, since it's shooting well to the east of us.

Surf early until it's clean, also because tomorrow is going to be stronger onshore and crappy all day.

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