Plenty action all over the island, let's dig into it starting from this incredible paddle in barrel of Albee Layer at Jaws. The photos are by Fish Bowl Diaries and I strongly recommend you check the whole sequence to see how impossible it looked at one point. Actually, that looked impossible from the drop to me.
If anyone one day will surf Jaws on a sub-7 board, that's gonna be Albee.
He's in there.
And when you're that deep and you come out, that's what you do.
I hope he gets wave of the winter of barrel of the year or one of those things.
Chuck Patterson did it again. He tow skied Jaws. Photo by Jimmie Hepp.
Last, but most definitely not least, here's a photo of Jason Hall illustrating the firing conditions at Honolua Bay.
Let's have a look at the graph of the three buoys. I put red arrows again on the peak of the swell. The times I mentioned yesterday were confirmed: 12h difference between NW and Pauwela, due to the 18s interval. Whoever was watching (or surfing or shooting) the waves all day might have not noticed the peak, since the swell stayed pretty steady after it, but the buoys did.
I circled the switch to the 15s period on the NW. That will coincide with a sharper decrease, as you can see from the graph. It looks like it happened around 5pm yesterday. 15s means 15h travel (for a swell from around 320) and so the same shoud happen in Maui around 8am today.
At 6am Pauwela still reads well into the 18s though:
13.1ft @ 18s from 321° (NW)
1.8ft @ 9s from 346° (NNW)
so still plenty more energy in the water and most of the regular spots (Hookipa included) not surfable.Plenty other ones though! Happy hunting!
Wind map shows a nice long fetch that unfortunately will move in the direction of the arrow and the biggest energy of it will miss out to the NE. But we'll still get plenty. Good swell for Baja though.
South Pacific getting active, it's been a few days with little fetches here and there. Today's ones look pretty good and that big one S of New Zealand should get even better. Keep an eye on the south shore in a week. BTW, West Lanai buoy back is in action.
MC2km back in action too, here's the 10am map of today that shows the wonderful light SE wind that all north shore surfers love.
Later in the day light trades should pick up (not enough for sailing). This is 2pm. What time do I start working?
1 comment:
Invited to Eddie and accepts... and instead does this. Great surfer and amazing barrel no doubt but in my opinion a serious lack of respect for the symbol it represents. There are men surfing and boys. He may surf like a man but heven is just an entitled child. Unfortunate.
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