12.30pm honolua has inconsistent chest to head high sets. 20 people total, but it's pretty slow.
Wednesday, May 09, 2018
Wednesday 5 9 18 morning call
Thanks a lot to blog reader Jeremy for the spontaneous donation at the gas station.
A shortboard and a prone foiling session for me yesterday. The jetty was doing its thing despite the light onshore wind. That wave is incredible.
Naish rider Ethan styling a cut back.
Bernd Roediger chose to ride a fish instead.
And this guy on the bodyboard kept getting barreled.
5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for the rise of a new low long period swell with 0.9f 15s. I checked the maps from a week ago and didn't see anything particularly exciting. Pat Caldwell didn't write anything in his table either, it's probably going to be just enough not to call it flat.
North shore
Pauwela
4.7ft @ 12s from 358° (N)
One thing for sure: I won't surf Hookipa. Still pretty stormy in this random pic from the webcam. But I'm a bit of a surf snob, so that doesn't mean it's not surfable.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific only has a small fetch in the NW corner and a small/weak windswell one.
Only one small fetch also in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.
A shortboard and a prone foiling session for me yesterday. The jetty was doing its thing despite the light onshore wind. That wave is incredible.
Naish rider Ethan styling a cut back.
Bernd Roediger chose to ride a fish instead.
And this guy on the bodyboard kept getting barreled.
5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for the rise of a new low long period swell with 0.9f 15s. I checked the maps from a week ago and didn't see anything particularly exciting. Pat Caldwell didn't write anything in his table either, it's probably going to be just enough not to call it flat.
North shore
Pauwela
4.7ft @ 12s from 358° (N)
3.9ft @ 7s from 67° (ENE)
3.4ft @ 8s from 30° (NNE)
2.7ft @ 9s from 2° (N)
The collage below (Pauwela's graph and SL forecast) shows that the swell has peaked yesterday and it will decrease all day today (red line on the right). I was very impressed by the size it got yesterday, as I keep forgetting how important of a factor the vicinity of the fetch is. I saw same impressive photos from the west side, but unfortunately not Honolua. I'm off today, I might go check it out, as 4.7f 12s from N is still a very fun size over there. We'll see, sometimes I know exactly where to go, some other times the plan unfolds with the flow.
One thing for sure: I won't surf Hookipa. Still pretty stormy in this random pic from the webcam. But I'm a bit of a surf snob, so that doesn't mean it's not surfable.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific only has a small fetch in the NW corner and a small/weak windswell one.
Only one small fetch also in the South Pacific.
Morning sky.
Tuesday, May 08, 2018
Tuesday 5 8 18 morning call
A longboard session for me yesterday, while my foiling buddies went on a smoking windy Kihei downwind run. Here's the video that Jeremy Riggs put together. Might be extremely boring if you don't foil, for me it's fascinating. Damn, I need my fingers to get better soon.
5 Minutes Of Fun! from Paddle With Riggs on Vimeo.
5am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.2ft @ 12s from 135° (SE)
5 Minutes Of Fun! from Paddle With Riggs on Vimeo.
5am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.2ft @ 12s from 135° (SE)
1.1ft @ 15s from 140° (SE)
A little bit of southerly energy at the W buoy should mean that the Lahaina side will not be flat once again. But I wouldn't expect much more than that, as the Surfline forecast only calls for 0.8f 11s.
North shore
N
North shore
N
9.5ft @ 15s from 339° (NNW)
5.3ft @ 10s from 330° (NW)
Pauwela
7.1ft @ 14s from 7° (N)
5.1ft @ 9s from 356° (N)
4.2ft @ 7s from 52° (ENE)
The swell did arrive and the numbers at Pauwela are pretty impressive. With such a close generating fetch (see the maps of the last couple of days) and some trades on it, Hookipa will obviously be a big mess. Seek for sheltered spots is my recommendation. Honolua will be breaking for sure, would love to see how big and what quality (my guess on this last one is medium/low), but can't make it today. If someone goes, please send me pics, thanks.
Wind map at noon.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific taking a day of break and only shows a tiny fetch in the NW corner, as the main fetch of that low is not aiming mostly at Canada.
Not much on offer either from the South.
Morning sky.
Monday, May 07, 2018
Monday 5 7 18 morning call
A prone foiling session in the horrible Hookipa conditions for me yesterday. I tried the front footstrap and I liked it, but I need to test it on cleaner waves to really talk about it.
In this days of poor conditions and no photos of the day, Facebook is providing me with plenty interesting memories from a few years ago. This is what I posted on May 6 2013. Just to show that not all May 6's are the same...
1) I got Josh Stone and Robby Swift paddling out right in front of me and Josh is yelling:"go Giampaolo!". You can see the determination on my face.
2) no need to caption this
3) me:"you guys ok?"
Josh (while still laughing):"Giampaolo, that was awesome!"
4) whatever, I'm a kook and I don't care
5) redemption wave... mostly to show that it was kinda nice also this morning.
3am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
1.6ft @ 14s from 141° (SE)
SW
1.8ft @ 13s from 127° (ESE)
SE
2ft @ 13s from 153° (SSE)
Decent readings at the three outer buoys, I'll give it a go this morning and report later. Yesterday I got customers' reports of very small waves: "knee high and not worth paddling out", but I don't particularly trust them.
North shore
N
5.5ft @ 8s from 336° (NNW)
Hanalei
6.1ft @ 8s from 357° (N)
Pauwela
3.3ft @ 8s from 77° (ENE)
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific has a pretty deep low in the NW corner and a weaker but closer one north of us. They both have fetches oriented towards us, but they both are moving away towards the NE. 8f 12-14s from 355 mid Tuesday and 5f 14s from 326 late Thursday, predicted by Surfline.
South Pacific offers scattered fetches. That's what makes the "background" surf we find in summer time.
Morning sky.
In this days of poor conditions and no photos of the day, Facebook is providing me with plenty interesting memories from a few years ago. This is what I posted on May 6 2013. Just to show that not all May 6's are the same...
1) I got Josh Stone and Robby Swift paddling out right in front of me and Josh is yelling:"go Giampaolo!". You can see the determination on my face.
2) no need to caption this
3) me:"you guys ok?"
Josh (while still laughing):"Giampaolo, that was awesome!"
4) whatever, I'm a kook and I don't care
5) redemption wave... mostly to show that it was kinda nice also this morning.
3am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
1.6ft @ 14s from 141° (SE)
SW
1.8ft @ 13s from 127° (ESE)
SE
2ft @ 13s from 153° (SSE)
Decent readings at the three outer buoys, I'll give it a go this morning and report later. Yesterday I got customers' reports of very small waves: "knee high and not worth paddling out", but I don't particularly trust them.
North shore
N
5.5ft @ 8s from 336° (NNW)
Hanalei
6.1ft @ 8s from 357° (N)
Pauwela
3.3ft @ 8s from 77° (ENE)
2.6ft @ 6s from 72° (ENE)
0.8ft @ 12s from 39° (NE)
Short period northerly energy on the rise at the N and Hanalei buoys. Those periods travel slowly and that's why in the collage below (Hanalei, Pauwela and the Surfline offshore swells forecast), the rise in Maui is only predicted in the afternoon (blue line turning green).
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific has a pretty deep low in the NW corner and a weaker but closer one north of us. They both have fetches oriented towards us, but they both are moving away towards the NE. 8f 12-14s from 355 mid Tuesday and 5f 14s from 326 late Thursday, predicted by Surfline.
South Pacific offers scattered fetches. That's what makes the "background" surf we find in summer time.
Morning sky.
Sunday, May 06, 2018
Sunday 5 6 18 morning call
A longboard session for me yesterday. Here's the shot that explains the one I posted yesterday. And here's the explanation of it that I provided back then in a comment:
The shot is indeed trippy and deceiving.
This one will clarify it, since it was taken a fraction of second before that.
Just a common (for kooks like me, at least) case in which you realize you're too deep for a wave you're paddling for and at the very last moment you decide to sit back on the board and not go for it.
So, no wipeout at all and all good. In that occasion, at least.
The smile I have is not for posing. It's a smile that says to myself:"there we go, yet another beautiful one that will go unridden because you're not in the right spot"...
5am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
1.6ft @ 15s from 174° (S)
SW
2ft @ 14s from 127° (ESE)
SE
2.5ft @ 11s from 134° (SE)
As usual for the outer buoys (unless there's absolutely nothing else in the water), disregard the directions and focus on size and period. I like today's numbers, they indicate that that sliver of 17s energy I pointed out yesterday filled in and it's now 14-15s. Yesterday morning it was the reported size (knee to waist occasionally higher), but still all about the 11-12s. Don't think I'll have time this morning to go there, so no report from the beach.
North shore
Pauwela
Those numbers could be potentially fun at Hookipa, but not with sideon wind like it is predicted to blow all day. Possible beach report later.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows the fetch associated with the close by forming low getting stronger and a new small one in the NW corner.
South Pacific has a couple of fetches that without the map on the right I would have not spotted. The Earth is curved and a flat map doesn't really work, specially towards the poles. That's when the great circle rays maps come into place.
Morning sky.
The shot is indeed trippy and deceiving.
This one will clarify it, since it was taken a fraction of second before that.
Just a common (for kooks like me, at least) case in which you realize you're too deep for a wave you're paddling for and at the very last moment you decide to sit back on the board and not go for it.
So, no wipeout at all and all good. In that occasion, at least.
The smile I have is not for posing. It's a smile that says to myself:"there we go, yet another beautiful one that will go unridden because you're not in the right spot"...
5am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
1.6ft @ 15s from 174° (S)
SW
2ft @ 14s from 127° (ESE)
SE
2.5ft @ 11s from 134° (SE)
1.6ft @ 14s from 137° (SE)
As usual for the outer buoys (unless there's absolutely nothing else in the water), disregard the directions and focus on size and period. I like today's numbers, they indicate that that sliver of 17s energy I pointed out yesterday filled in and it's now 14-15s. Yesterday morning it was the reported size (knee to waist occasionally higher), but still all about the 11-12s. Don't think I'll have time this morning to go there, so no report from the beach.
North shore
Pauwela
4.3ft @ 8s from 68° (ENE)
Those numbers could be potentially fun at Hookipa, but not with sideon wind like it is predicted to blow all day. Possible beach report later.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific shows the fetch associated with the close by forming low getting stronger and a new small one in the NW corner.
South Pacific has a couple of fetches that without the map on the right I would have not spotted. The Earth is curved and a flat map doesn't really work, specially towards the poles. That's when the great circle rays maps come into place.
Morning sky.
Saturday, May 05, 2018
Saturday 5 5 18 morning call
No water action for me yesterday, as I couldn't find anything that pleased me.
Here's a photo from three years ago, a time in which I thought Facebook took over and I was only posting there. The caption was: "caption needed" and the comments went off. Commenting on this blog is not as friendly, but go ahead if you feel like. Tomorrow I'll post a shot taken a few seconds before this one to explain how it happened.
3am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.8ft @ 11s from 150° (SE)
Here's a photo from three years ago, a time in which I thought Facebook took over and I was only posting there. The caption was: "caption needed" and the comments went off. Commenting on this blog is not as friendly, but go ahead if you feel like. Tomorrow I'll post a shot taken a few seconds before this one to explain how it happened.
3am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.8ft @ 11s from 150° (SE)
0.7ft @ 17s from 180° (S)
SW
2.7ft @ 11s from 137° (SE)
2.7ft @ 11s from 137° (SE)
SE
2.3ft @ 12s from 162° (SSE)
2.3ft @ 12s from 162° (SSE)
Surprising little lovely southerly readings at the outer buoys, including a sliver of 17s energy at the W one. I wouldn't count too much on that, but the shorter period ones should provide with some waves. I will post a report before 6.30am.
North shore
North shore
Hanalei
1.6ft @ 10s from 342° (NNW)
1.6ft @ 10s from 342° (NNW)
Pauwela
3.3ft @ 8s from 60° (ENE)
1.7ft @ 11s from 347° (NNW)
Little NNW energy on top of the windswell, yesterday it was 13s and there were actually some decent waves at Hookipa in the head high range, to the point that windsurfing looked like fun. My guess is that it will be smaller than that today.
Wind map at noon. Early morning will be calm everywhere instead.
Wind map at noon. Early morning will be calm everywhere instead.
North Pacific shows a wide but very weak NNW fetch. The low I marked with L will intensify soon and tomorrow its winds will be much stronger. We'll have to wait and see how big is going to be the portion of them oriented towards us. 9f 14s predicted by Surfline on Tuesday.
South Pacific has a small fetch.
Morning sky. Once that front will make it over us (it took forever), the wind is unfortunately going to turn NE and we all know how bad that is for surfing on the north shore.
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