What an awesome day of surfing!
Morning session at Publics. Inconsistent, but glassy, big and not crowded. I really like this place because it offers big steep drops that mellow out immediately after the take off. The waves are slow and playful. The take off area is very wide and the morning crowd is mellow and not too numerous (in the late afternoon, instead, it can get very, very crowded).
There was a SUP surfing contest at Queens. I stopped by quickly to take some photos.
I was fairly unimpressed by the level of the contestants and by how in general by how SUP surfing looks.
Check the difference with these shots of the US Open of Surfing at Huntington Beach sent by my buddy Harry .
Well, Harry is a better photographer too, that's for sure...
Did the guy in the first three photos look like Kelly Slater? Yes, it was him riding a double stringer quad.
The webcast is up, just like the waves. Slater is up soon against Maui's Granger Larsen who learned how to surf at Puamana pools.
What should I do: wait for his heat or go surf myself? Ah, what a tough decision...
Anyway, back to Queens, click this photo and check the guy flying mid air on the front of the boat.
The wind was very light and in the afternoon I surfed Da Spot, that can be a really good surf spot too. There's a fairly long right that was quite packed though, so I was catching the same lefts of the windsurfing break. Fun. Here's a wave.
day waves: 24
average per day (38 days in the water): 24.6
PS. I waited for that heat and as usual Kelly the freak Slater didn't disappoint. A huge carving 360 under the lip of a double overhead wave: 9.87.
Now I'll go to Publics and do EXACTLY the same!