After a (great) week in Maui, I'm now back in Oahu.
This guy made Diamond Head look good. Must be the board...
I sailed Da Spot instead. It was a lot smaller (like waist to shoulder high), but still fun. I caught 23 waves in complete solitude. Maybe tomorrow I'll try DH again.
At sunset the waves at Ala Moana were pretty small and I finally surfed Bowls with just a few other guys out. I caught 21 waves and enjoyed a remarkable sunset.
Here's what uncle Pat says about June:
"During the month of June, the jet stream pattern of a ridge over the Tasman sea and a trough for longitudes east of New Zealand to south of French Polynesia led to abundant days of local surf above the summer average. Such counts of elevated days had not been seen in the month of June since the 1970s."
Here's what I add: it was bloody fantastic! It was so good that I didn't really need to be in Oahu (other than for the wave sailing maybe) to enjoy it: the waves were good in Maui too.
Now instead, the jet stream is not going to cooperate much anymore and we'll have a week with very small surf. But today's wave count is a clear demonstration of what I have already said a few times: when it's small, Oahu is way better than Maui.
Next week though, it will already go back to decent size waves. I can see some sweet fetches lining up...
There must be quite a big colony of mongooses (or is that mongeese?) at Diamond Head. Cute!
Here's the new totals.
waves today: 45
average per day (23 days in the water): 23.3
Ah, I just watched September Sessions.
I don't care how long it will take me, I don't care how many waves I will need to catch... one day I will be able to surf like those guys.
And even if I won't, it won't matter. Because it's the journey that matters, not the destination...
I'm loving my journey. You guys don't forget to enjoy yours...