Yesterday I surfed a break called Concessions and I had a lot of fun.
My first time there wasn't as good, since the waves were bigger and kinda closing out. But yesterday, if you had the patience to wait enough, you could get onto some superclean chest high little gems. The Lanai buoy was reading 1.5 feet at 12 seconds from 180. That means flat to knee high in Maui. Waist to chest high in Oahu. These are the days in which the difference between the two islands is biggest.
After the surf session, I took a few pics of the beach scene. And you thought that the silicon valley was in California...
The funny thing is that while I was taking these photos (as you can imagine I took a bunch of them), a friend from Maui called me to tell me that she just had an intensive boob exam and that everything was ok.
"To make sure that nothing was there, the radiologist took many pictures of my boobs", she said...
"Hey, that's exactly what I'm doing too right here in Oahu... taking many pictures of boobs! Does that make me a radiologist?".
Anyway, to make sure that something was there, I took some pictures of what was below the valley and... yes, there was a bikini there!
A patriotic beach-goer for the ladies. Easy girls... what they say about black guys may well be true, but that's just a bend in the wind blown shorts...
Hey look how quickly he picked up a girl! Must be the shorts... maybe I should wear some italian flag ones...
This guy passed by me after he quenched his thirst. He was loudly talking about god... or to god, I'm not really sure.
At sunset I sailed Da Spot and it was fun. The place also gets a bit of windswell wrap too and that is reading 6 feet at 8 seconds, so even better.
Light, very very light.
Clean, very very clean.
4.7 Superfreak Ultralight and 81l Quatro twinzer remain the perfect combo for me in these conditions. I'm really stoked about both.
Message for the Oahu (and Maui) sailors: I have a brand new SF Ultralight 5.3 that I only used once at Diamond Head and I will sell before going back to Maui. Email me if you want to score an outrageous deal.
waves today: 37
average per day (26 days in the water): 24.5
PS. The PWA Pozo wave contest started. Here's the single elimination ladder.
Clearly no live webcast yet.