Monday, June 05, 2017

7am lahaina town is knee to occasionally waist high and clean. From the road hookipa looked nearly flat, Ukumehame knee high and not much wind, olowalu flat.


scott werden said...

There are many natural channels on Maui and Oahu which create the situation you described with Lahaina. Peahi is our most famous example of shallow reef next to deep water channel. Sean Collins did a nice series of analyses on Oahu north shore surf spots in which he diagrammed wave refraction due to bathymetry. Here is a link to the Sunset Beach analysis. It is very interesting stuff for anyone who likes to geek on the physics of waves.
BTW, big mahalo for this blog. I check it every morning.

cammar said...

thanks, yes those "mechanics of" by Collins are awesome