Sunday, June 18, 2017

Sunday 6 18 17 morning call

Wonderful day of surfing on the south shore that I honored with a delightful double session. This is a photo from yesterday.

Meanwhile, the first race of the 2017 Maui Race Series organized by Hi-Tech was taking place at Kanaha. Jimmie Hepp was there shooting and this is a crowded jibe from this gallery.

Here's the schedule of the other races.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.8ft @ 13s from 160° (SSE)
2ft @ 18s from 163° (SSE)

2.9ft @ 13s from 179° (S)

6.2ft @ 8s from 93° (E)
3.2ft @ 13s from 181° (S)
1.9ft @ 18s from 97° (E)
All the southerly readings went up at the outer buoys and the predicted reinforcement coming from the further fetch described in yesterday's post is now here. 18s are the result of stronger winds and longer travel. Notice how the 13s coming from the closer fetch are bigger in size. My guess is that nonetheless the 18s sets will shoal on the reef more and result in bigger wave faces upon breaking on the reef. The mix of the two should make for higher consistency.
Also notice how the direction of the 18s energy is completely wrong at the SE buoy, but that's because of the oscillations induced by the strong windswell (I left the 8s reading so you guys can see it), which won't effect the waves on the south shore (at least, we hope so).
So today it should be bigger and more consistent than yesterday, but check the webcams for confirmation of that, as I hope to be out of the door at dark and can't do that for you.

North shore
0.8ft @ 14s from 271° (W)
0.5ft @ 18s from 256° (WSW)

3.5ft @ 8s from 90° (E)           
2.7ft @ 6s from 74° (ENE)
0.3ft @ 16s from 73° (ENE)
No NW energy at the NW buoys just yet, but we know how those buoys don't show a new small swell until its bigger, if they're subject to other swells (the windswell in this case). Waimea is much more sensitive and shows some small 14 and 18s energy. Not sure which one is the one that will grow into the swell we're expecting tonight, probably the 14s one, as the fetch wasn't that strong. Even the 16s reading at Pauwela could be that, but we'll find out later in the day. In the meantime, we'll trust the Surfline forecast (which has been absolutely spot on for several days) shown below. The 8pm forecast for that swell (yellow line) is 1.5f 14s from 323 and that means that there should be small sets at sunset, but the swell is more like a tomorrow's deal with a 2.6f 11s forecast at 2pm. Nothing major, but much better than the flatness of the past few days. Keep an eye on the Pauwela readings and the Mama's webcam if you want to surf/sail on the north shore today.

Wind map at 2pm.

Alternative wind map at 2pm.

North Pacific shows the stubborn NNW fetch that has been making waves for several days and tonight will finally save the north shore from its flatness.

South Pacific shows a well oriented, long fetch. Unfortunately, the winds in it are pretty light.

Morning sky shows some high clouds over Maui.

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