Saturday, October 24, 2015

10 24 15 morning call

Fun size waves at Hookipa yesterday morning, as the report reported. I had a lesson on the south shore so I went there to surf this wave beforehand.

 Look how nicely the water has settled in front of the wave.
18s and no wind do that.

My two Canadian students did great, here he needs to be a little lighter on the front foot.

Epic shower shot opportunity did not go missed.
You just don't have a pornstar photoshoot at Puamana every day.

Wow! From curves to other curves, here's today's wind map. The NW fetch is pretty big, but relatively weka. It will become much stronger in the next couple of days and that will send us a NW swell that Surfline at the moment is calling at 11f 16s from 344 on Wednesday. If confirmed, Jaws will be breaking for sure and Honolua will be totally epic double to triple overhead.

Wind should be light (check that on MC2km later when updated) and I think today might be the peak day of the south swell. I say that because of how nicely south to north the fetch SE New Zealand on the weather map of 7 days ago is oriented.

That seems to be confirmed by the Barbers buoy graph below.
4f 17s is remarkable reading when it comes to south swells, but do not forget how inconsistent they are. I mean, look at how far they are generated, how can you expect the same consistency of closer generated N swells?
I like inconsistent swells. You might catch less waves in a session, but it's way easier to paddle out after a ride and far generated swells last longer. For the same exact reason that makes them inconsistent: waves of different period travel at different speed, so the more they travel the more they spread apart.

One thing buoys don't tell you is the consistency (or maybe they do, but you got to analyze the raw data), so just assume it's gonna be slow if it's a swell generated SE of New Zealand. Very slow if it's also shooting at the Americas and we're getting the angular spreading (like in the past few days).

Pauwela is reading
3.6ft @ 13s from 57° (ENE)
2.9ft @ 10s from 75° (ENE)
2.4ft @ 11s from 58° (ENE)
1.4ft @ 5s from 41° (NE)
and all those ENE are a sign that the waves from hurricane Olaf are starting to arrive. They will increase all day, be careful if you surf in Hana.
Got a business appointment at 6am. Not sure I can post a south shore report at that time, but I'll try to post it later in the morning.

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