When I said this swell was going to be much, much better than the previous one, I meant for surfing on the north shore, which is what this call is mostly focused on. And, without a doubt, it was.
It probably wasn't on the west side (too west to sneak in between Maui and Molokai). And I also forgot to mention (can't talk about everything every time) that a more westerly swell creates a stronger rip at The Point at Hookipa. The last section of the rights, in fact, had some serious bumps created by the current that moves the water out the channel between Hookipa and Lanes and then upwind. Water moving against the wind creates chop. I'm sure the windsurfers didn't like that too much, but they had another great day in the contest and they're getting closer to finish the double elimination of the Pro Men. The lefts were pretty damn good instead.
I always like to report a photo from yesterday, so this is Jaws (smaller, as predicted) in a photo of John Patao.
Today I'll also add two photos from two days ago.
First one is Single Elimination winner Morgan Noireaux doing a move that I've never seen before and I'm not even sure he planned on doing. He hit the lip, came out a bit engulfed in it, somehow pulled off a forward rotation with a nose (of the board) pick in the water, spun it and kept riding on the face of the wave. Kinda those nose pick reverses that Jadson Andre was doing each single left he caught at Trestles a couple of years ago and that Kerr and Wilkinson pull off quite often too.
Photo by Jimmie Hepp.
This is the spot I surfed two days ago, I forgot this photo in the camera.
The graph of the three buoys is below, notice the similar double hump camel shape at all of them.
The second peak is just starting to come down in Maui, 7.4f 14s is still a lot for me, but I'll probably chance Hookipa (expect a report soon).
Also notice how the swell will gradually go down all day. The NW buoy graph tells us that.
Barbers is only reading the NW wrap, so we have no info on the energy from south swells, you have to check the lahaina camera for that.
And the UPDATED MC2km for the wind whenever they will be available.
Wind maps shows a fetch N of us that is shooting waves SW and that part of the swell will miss us, but I used it as an example to show what the angular spreading looks like. The swells don't only trave straight in the direction they were generated, but they open up angularly to the side. It's intuitive to understand that on the those sides the energy will be less than right in the middle.
Nice fetch down south, 3f south swell in a week (next weekend).
Cheers, I'm gonna go drop in some bombs!
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