Sunday, October 25, 2015

10 25 15 morning call

Another fun day of surfing on the south shore yesterday.

I surfed a spot that was head high on the Makena side first. This is Roque Calderon boosting an air.
Then I went to Lahaina where I briefly surfed a spot that was waist high, before moving to Breakwall that instead had head high sets. The two spots are less than a km apart and it was the first time I saw such a big difference in size between them. Bit of a mystery this swell, really. I thoroughly enjoyed it anyway, despite the lack of consistency (which yesterday was a bit better).
Didn't see Hookipa all day, other than at sunset where it looked fairly small, maybe up to chest high.
Buoys 5am
4.1ft @ 12s from 97° (E)
3.1ft @ 9s from 56° (ENE)
2.5ft @ 10s from 68° (ENE)
0.7ft @ 4s from 55° (ENE)
3.9ft @ 14s from 184° (S)
0.8ft @ 12s from 208° (SSW)
0.4ft @ 9s from 284° (WNW)
We have two different 4 feet swells today. And easterly one coming from Olaf at 12s, and the very long lasting,inconsistent south one, now down to 14s.
If you wonna surf the first one today, your best chance is Hana, since the direction is 97 and not many spots on the north shore are exposed to that. It's going to turn a little into the northern quadrant, but not much today if you see where Olaf still is in this morning's wind map below. Notice also the lovely lack of wind around the islands.

Wind map that is so beautiful that deserves a real weather map for additional comments.
Not one, but two wide, hurricane force wind northwesterly fetches separated by a proper high pressure is a rare occurance.
The one NNW of us will generate a swell that will pick up quickly on Tuesday and that Surfline is calling at 11f 15s in the morning of Wednesday from 344.
The one WNW of us, due to longer distance of travel, will generate a swell that will rise on Thursday and peak on Friday at 10f 16s from 311.

Wonna see what 33 degrees of difference will do on Maui with similar size/period swells? You got a wonderful opportunity this week!

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