Wednesday, September 02, 2015

9 2 15 morning call

The big east swell from Ignacio hit and I surfed this spot that was firing and full of good surfers.
At one point I was sitting between Matt Kinoshita, Ola Eleogram and Imai DeVault. My chances of catching a wave were slim and even if I did catch one, it would have been a waste compared to what those guys would do on it.
So I sat on the shoulder and caught a few leftovers.
Nice aerial by a Hi-Tech team rider.

Brazilian hit.

Guy is in the closeout barrel while a big set looms on the horizon.

I also caught a wave at Hookipa at sunset. It was big, mushy and disorganized. Should be better today, because at least the wind will be offshore as the winguru table below shows. Trade winds have been canceled.

5ft @ 10s from 86° (E)
4.5ft @ 13s from 92° (E)
4ft @ 8s from 67° (ENE)

10.7ft @ 8s from 170° (S)
4.3ft @ 11s from 65° (ENE)
2.8ft @ 15s from 101° (ESE)
2.3ft @ 13s from 94° (E)

6.3ft @ 17s from 93° (E) from Jimena
6.1ft @ 11s from 9° (N) from Ignacio
3.4ft @ 10s from 9° (N)
1.9ft @ 7s from 303° (WNW)
1.8ft @ 9s from 234° (WSW)
1.7ft @ 12s from 213° (SW)
1.4ft @ 18s from 209° (SSW)

On the Pauwela readings I pointed which swell comes from which storm. Lovely long period small south swell too on Barbers, but, as mentioned above, the wind will be from the south, so no good.

Wind map shows the three small but close fetches from all the hurricanes and a last day of waves from the south.
In the rest of the week, a nice fetch will first set up for Fiji in the Tasman sea and then it will cross over New Zealand to generate a good south swell for us for the second weekend of September. You will remember that there will be a solid south swell already this weekend.

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