Thursday, September 03, 2015

9 3 15 morning call

The word to describe the conditions yesterday at The Point around mid day is Epic.

Braddah Loch locks in a barrel

Alan Cadiz is back in the water after his back injury last winter. I was stoked to be out there with him.

Double rail grab in the closeout barrel.

Sweet cuttie.

The point looking like Backdoor.

I had two sessions, the best of which at The point. This is a bomb I took off pretty deep. Stuck the drop, didn't make the section in front of me.

7.5ft @ 10s from 38° (NE)
6.7ft @ 15s from 111° (ESE)

7.6ft @ 13s from 103° (ESE)
6.7ft @ 10s from 98° (E)

6.4ft @ 11s from 69° (ENE)
5.6ft @ 14s from 100° (E)

2.3ft @ 9s from 253° (WSW)
2.2ft @ 11s from 272° (W)
1.9ft @ 15s from 201° (SSW)
1.3ft @ 20s from 185° (S)
Plenty more energy from the east on tap for today and light SE wind, as the windguru table shows.
Some energy from the south too.
I circled the nasty weather that Jimena should bring in a week.

Today's wind map shows the three hurricans surrounding the islands. Kilo to the west is going to get stronger and move slowly away. The related west swell is going to get bigger during the week.
Kilo is going to move north and dissolve. Jimena to the east is going to get almost stationary to the NE of us (NE swell is gonna be ruling, better find a spot you like with this direction), before actually hitting the islands. This is 7-10 days ahead, it can always change.

It can change even more this last prediction, since it's for the 16 of September and shows a serious NW fetch. If it happens, NW swell will hit around Sept 20. 17 days from now! Only on mauisurfreport!

For the moment, enjoy the east swell. Here, this lovely left I caught at Green Trees might give you an inspiration to get out there.

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