Saturday, January 10, 2015

1 10 15 morning call

Bragging comes first!!!
This I wrote at 6.30am yesterday morning:
"I'm calling 1.4f 18s from 321 at the Pauwela buoy at 6pm tonight..."
Below is the snip of the Surfline buoy page from yesterday evening. Click on it if you can't read it.

I was 0.2 feet short in size and 4 degrees off the direction. I got the period right.

I don't know about you guys, but I'm impressed... of how lucky I am!!!
Now I could even claim the appellative of Maestro, like one of my friends likes to call me, but I'll stick to the more humble Uncle.
I am one too, btw. Of two beautiful nephews and two beautiful nieces.
And I also have a third niece who belongs to my Hawaiian neighbor's family and she calls me like that.
She's got the sweetest eyes you can imagine and she melts my heart every time she shouts:"Hi uncle!". She doesn't know my name. I don't know hers. No need. We're Uncle and Niece.

Below are some shots I took yesterday after my first session at Hookipa.

My report from the beach was shoulder to head high. And that's what it was. Sometimes I don't have time to add "with occasional overhead sets". Or sometimes I don't have time to wait to see if there actually are occasional overhead sets! I got to surf. You guys understand.

Scott having fun with his 7.0 Jimmy Lewis. See, that was shoulder a high one.

Every longboard turn in which the nose of the board sticks out of the wave, is a good turn by definition.
That's more like a solid head high one for me. I write this so you guys know my scale.
My favorite size, btw.

A high crowd advisory was in effect

Not a bad spot for chilling out

Tail slide on a longboard? I told you this guy was good...

You might think from the sponsors stickers that it's Ian Walsh...

...and yep, that's definitely him!
Let's talk about today.
4am main swell buoy readings:

7.3ft @ 15s from 299° (WNW)
3.7ft @ 10s from 303° (WNW)

8.2ft @ 14s from 314° (NW)

Pauwela (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
7.3ft @ 17s from 322° (NW)
1.6ft @ 9s from 67° (ENE)

West lanai Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's south shore)
2.7ft @ 15s from 293° (WNW)

The new NW swell is definitely here and it looks like a good one for two reasons:
1) the mix of swells out of the NW to N quadrant has gone down a lot. The lines are going to be cleaner and it's a 17s one
2) I can hear much cleaner breaking patterns from my house at 5.30am. Last couple of days, it was mostly white noise, which indicates a messy breaking patter.

7f 17s is way too big for me at Hookipa. So don't expect a photo report, because I will leave in the dark in search of smaller waves. I work at 9 today, and I promise you I'll be the first one in the water. Let's see if I manage to beat Dave Peterson...
See how important it is to know what the buoy readings mean?

These are the graphs of the three buoys, from which you can observe the propagation delays.
Once again, the article on Surfline that explains it is here.
If you don't remember the exact speed of the different periods, just go like this: For a swell from around 320, it's roughly 12 hours from the NW buoy to Maui if the period is around 16. Roughly 16 hours if the period is around 12. Easy uh?

Below is the wind map that shows a big NW fetch (no lack of waves in these days in Hawaii) and a light easterly flow on Maui.

As the photo of Morgan below taken by Jimmie shows, yesterday some windsurfing did happen up the coast, so the HRW model was correct!
I posted several updates yesterday morning, and that's something I will try to do more and more. So you guys should check the blog if you want to know what's going on during the day. Sadly the time stamp of the posts doesn't clearly show the time at which the post was done, but if you hover with the mouse on the time stamp, it will. Not sure how to do that from a phone though...

Well guess what, the same model is calling for the same amount of wind in the afternoon today. So don't fall asleep with the boob in your mouth (sorry, translation from a napolitan saying...) and monitor the wind if you don't want to miss another day!
Also because... remember I had two news for you wind addicted people? One bad and one good one?
Well, as the windguru weekly map clearly shows, there's gonna be no sailing/kiting for a week!
The good news is that the week after this looks a lot better...
For me there's no bad news. Wind or no wind, as long as there's waves, I'm happy. To be honest though, a week like this looks like heaven really... let's hope that my PT that I will see this afternoon for a lower back little pain (surely due to too much surfing) doesn't tell me I have to rest!

Time to hit the road.
Have fun in the sun everyone!

PS. All the sources for this post are permanently linked in the links section on the right of this blog.

Cabo Verde contest website.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the report uncle.