Friday, January 02, 2015

1 2 15 morning call

 

 
 5am main swell buoy readings:

Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
7ft @ 11s from 345° (NNW)

This is an example of the waves that were on offer yesterday in Maui.
Photo by Jason Hall, you find him on facebook if you want a water shoot at https://www.facebook.com/jasonhallphoto.

   
To ride a wave like that you need pretty much two things:
1) to know that that spot was going off that day. This blog might help the building of your knowledge.
2) to be able to do that.

I'd like to stress point 2 because it's the most common violation of the surfing etiquette rules that unfortunately I observe pretty much every day.

Every surfer needs to asses the conditions and judge if he/she can handle them. If not, even if that means no surfing that day, it is imperative that he/she does not get out there.
Examples:
- if you can't duck dive your board, you shouldn't be out on breaks that don't have a clear easy channel.
- if you're shaky on your SUP, you shouldn't be out anywhere unless you're the only one out.
I remember spending 3 months of practice on the south shore when I started SUP surfing back in 2004, before feeling comfortable enough to challenge the north shore. Today I see absolute beginners paddling out at Kanaha pretty much every day.
What really baffles me is how is it possible that one doesn't realize that. I guess that's part of lack of experience.
Anyway, please paddle out to a spot ONLY if you are sure you won't be a danger for the others.
Words destined to be lost in the wind...

Thanks for reading the rant, let's get back to today's call.
7f 11s is a fun size (once again, for me!!!!! for someone less skilled, it could be too difficult, for someone more skilled it could be boring). The swell is going down, as the Maui buoy graph shows below, and I'm guessing it's losing some of that raw energy it definitely showed yesterday.


The wind is forecasted to be SW again and the wind map below seems to confirm that. I also circled the fetch that will send us waves from the N for a couple of more days, but don't forget that tomorrow there's also a long period NW swell... too early for those details.

 



With the MC @ 2km website still not updated, we have to look at windguru again for details on the wind for today and it sure looks like it's gonna be another Kona wind day at Lanes (or Kanaha). That strong reinforcement due to that secondary low (marked with K in the map above) that will move closer to the islands in the afternoon. It seems a bit far from us to me, but hey, if the mathematical models predict so...



   



Have fun in the sun everyone!

2 comments:

@jasonihall said...

You can find Jason Hall on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/jasonhallphoto

cammar said...

thanks, I updated the post.
Saw you at the point... how much fun was that?!