Oʻahu's South shore includes way more South-East breaks (Sandy Beach/Diamond Head in the Southshore forecast; whereas we tend to think first of South-West breaks Lahaina/Kīhei. Perhaps the "...rising to 3-5 Monday" is more of a South-East call?
The most southerly point on Oahu is Black Point. It catches swells from ExSE to WxSW. Most of those swells are coming from SE, so they hit Oahu before they hit Maui. I grew up on Black Point, John Kelly lived there too, and he taught me to surf there, with no leashes and big boards. This was 1947-57 when I graduated from high school and went to mainland for college. John kept a daily log/diary of swell size and direction. It is the best record we have of the history of south swells in Hawaii. John could see the lineup from his back yard.
Aloha mauisurfer, Cool, your growing up w/ John Kelly in the neighborhood! SaveOurSurf! I knew Marion Kelly via UH. However, respectfully, it's not that Oʻahu gets ESE or SSE swells First. It's that Maui does not get many at all as those are blocked by Hawaiʻi island and, for some swell directions, Lānaʻi.
Born and raised in Italy, I became an engineer and worked 11 years in the IT industry. Sick of that, in 2001 I wanted to take a year off and spend it in Maui, the best windsurfing spot in the world. Not only I'm still here (in Maui), but I also got into surfing. And the stoke is flying high. Life is too short to work 8 hours a day...
4 comments:
Re: Pat Caldwellʻs site/forecast.
Oʻahu's South shore includes way more South-East breaks (Sandy Beach/Diamond Head in the Southshore forecast; whereas we tend to think first of South-West breaks Lahaina/Kīhei. Perhaps the "...rising to 3-5 Monday" is more of a South-East call?
The most southerly point on Oahu is Black Point. It catches swells from ExSE to WxSW. Most of those swells are coming from SE, so they hit Oahu before they hit Maui.
I grew up on Black Point, John Kelly lived there too, and he taught me to surf there, with no leashes and big boards. This was 1947-57 when I graduated from high school and went to mainland for college.
John kept a daily log/diary of swell size and direction. It is the best record we have of the history of south swells in Hawaii. John could see the lineup from his back yard.
Aloha mauisurfer,
Cool, your growing up w/ John Kelly in the neighborhood! SaveOurSurf! I knew Marion Kelly via UH. However, respectfully, it's not that Oʻahu gets ESE or SSE swells First. It's that Maui does not get many at all as those are blocked by Hawaiʻi island and, for some swell directions, Lānaʻi.
http://ilikai.soest.hawaii.edu/HILO/Images/Oahu2BigIsle.gif
That's why I said Maui forecasts are looking for favorable SSW to SW swells.
I meant Kahoʻolawe blocking ESE/SE swells.
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