Tuesday, April 30, 2019

Tuesday 4 30 19 morning call

Two shortboard sessions for me yesterday. This shot shows the excellent conditions that lasted till 8ish when an offshore squall inexorably brought the wind in the lineup.

This is a clip of a wave which gave me the opportunity of little shampoo. Good, I needed. Can't even remember last time I had a proper one. .

I took this couple of shots after my session, not sure why they came out so washed out. Always thought Kai Lenny had a Currenish bottom turn.

He's an abstract of a brief conversation we had when he got out of the water.
GP: Kai, how would you score the conditions when we first paddle out?
Kai: Mmm... that was an eight (I gave them an 8.5 in my beach report)
GP: what about now with the wind?
Kai: it's more like a 4, but at least it's overhead so maybe still 6? (I had 5 in my mind)
It's good to occasionally double check if my conditions ranking are in line with surfing professionals and it this case they were.

He also told me that he's going to Italy for a family trip.
GP: Where about?
Kai: Napoli.
GP: That's where I'm from!
Kai: Really? I didn't know!
GP: You didn't know I was from Italy or you didn't know I was from Napoli?
Kai: Man, you've been around so long that I always thought you were just from Maui...

That made me chuckle and put a smile on my face because it made me think of many years ago when he was just a little kid and his dad was taking him to the beach at Kahana to teach him how to windsurf. I was on the same beach teaching windsurf lessons and I pride myself to have given him a few tips here and there... but he already looked like he didn't need much help to learn anything in the water.

This is my pick of Jimmie Hepp's daily gallery of the windsurfing action at Hookipa.

3-4am significant buoy readings
1.9ft @ 15s from 177° (S)

2.3ft @ 13s from 186° (S)

Yesterday afternoon I saw some very inconsistent head high sets on the Lahaina webcam and below is the map of April 22 that shows a very strong fetch oriented towards the Americas. The angularly spread energy of it must have been the source for those sets.

The local buoys still report good numbers, but I'm looking at the webcam and it looks pretty minimal for most of the time until... one of the angular spreading sets arrives! That's solid head high right there. And then it goes tiny for a long time.

North shore
5.3ft @ 10s from 338° (NNW)

4.1ft @ 6s from 29° (NNE)
3.4ft @ 10s from 334° (NNW)
2.7ft @ 9s from 342° (NNW)

3.5ft @ 10s from 323° (NW)

4.1ft @ 12s from 322° (NW)

NW swell went down in period quickly, but I was actually expecting less than 4ft 12s at Pauwela this morning. As you can see from the other buoys, it will soon be 10s, so get them as soon as you can, also because there's no wind at my house at 5.40am, but it will inexorably (sorry, I just learned this word, it's just perfect to describe the wind in Maui) arrive at one point. Below is Pauwela's graph together with my elaboration of it from yesterday and the Surfline forecast (pretty wrong in this case, as it never went up to 6ft)

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has pretty much nothing for us today. But I'm liking what's ahead...

South Pacific has a bunch of scattered fetches of which I circled the two best ones.

Morning sky.

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