South shore had fun waves yesterday.
significant buoy readings and discussion.
2.3ft @ 15s from 191° (SSW)
2.4ft @ 15s from 195° (SSW)
0.9ft @ 15s from 260° (W)
NW swell barely got up to the 1.6ft 12s predicted by Surfline during the night. As you will remember, the Pacioos forecast instead was calling for 2.5ft 13s instead. In the graph below, I put a a couple of red arrows to indicate the following:
- lower arrow: the difference between the open ocean swell prediction (blue dotted line) and what really happened (red dotted line)
- upper arrow: the gap that created in the significant wave height prediction (blue solid line) and what was instead registered (black solid line).
So this swell didn't produce much at all, but it allowed me to point out that the Surfline forecast was spot on and how to read the Pacioos forecast that I post every day. You can see from it that there's absolutely no sign of any further ground swells in the forecast period (till June 12), but only windswell.
Summer seems to be taking over, at least for the foreseeable future.
Home guess for Hookipa is around chest to shoulder high sloppy windswell waves.
Forecast and energy spectrum of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.
Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).
Fetches map (circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked) from Windy.
North Pacific (about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):
South Pacific (about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):