Day started ok with a surf session at those breaks on the Kewalo other side of the Magic Island.
Concessions, I think is the one I surfed. Nothing epic, a bit windy at times, a bit closing out at other times, but if you don't get out there and search, you never never know what you're missing... Quiz: who says that in which awesome windsurfing movie?
Anyway, 8 waves... better than nothing.
In the afternoon I went to da spot and saw another Superfreak!
Went out myself and broke the mast on the first wave. Derigged in the waves, paddled in, noticed a tear in a little panel of the sail (probably hit by the broken mast in the derigging phase)... thank god it's a superfreak, it's still sailable.
Went home to get the backup mast and headed out again around 5.30. The wind on the inside was so freaking light. Took me a while to make it out. In the meantime, the tide was dropping and, even though I was wisely wearing shoes (that I then put in the harness once out), I got a couple of sea urchins souvenirs in my foot.
I finally caught three beautiful waves that closed out in front of me after one turn because I didn't have enough power to make the section, when out of nowhere 6 surfers crowded the lineup.
That was too much to handle for me. It would have been different with a little more power, but I recognized that the conditions were actually better for surfing that windsurfing, so I left the arena to them.
Anticipating questions, I answer that I was out on a 4.7. I have a 5.3 with me too, but with this kind of wind the added power of a bigger sail doesn't help AT ALL. It's only more difficult to uphaul, light wind water start, tack, etc, because it's heavier.
You guys should know that I like light wind, but this is a bit too light. Tomorrow the forecast calls for stronger wind, we'll see. So far, the windsurfing has been a bit frustrating, but I have faith in the future.
The surfing has been great instead, maybe apart from the last few days, when it has been a bit too big. Most breaks start to close out over here when the buoy reads more than 4 feet long period swells. In other words, I'm starting to figure out that in those UNUSUAL conditions, Maui may be even better, because it gets less energy. And when the energy is so much, less is better!
Unfortunately (!!!) the wave forecast calls for more big waves.
Here's this morning's South Pacific weather map. That's already another big swell in a week.
And this is the one forecasted for Sunday 21st: even bigger!
Next weekend is going to massive again and, instead of being excited, I confess that I'm a little concerned. Unless the wind starts cranking from a more favorable ENE-NE direction and then the wave sailing could get epic... so they say.
But whatever, no complains. I'm happy to be here. As that reader reminded me, I could be working or have kids right now...
Plus I can always get on a cheap flight and cruise back home if really necessary!
Wave count up to date.
average per day: 20