Saturday, June 06, 2009

Oahu day 3 - Publics

That's the name of the spot I surfed today.

And that's a brilliant description of it taken from "A surfer guide to Hawaii" by Greg Ambrose. Click on the photos, it's readable.

"Numerous surfers have been surprised to find out that their thruster doesn't work nearly as well as a twin fin after the reef has yanked the third fin off. Other unplanned experiments show that a single fin board doesn't work well at all when the coral amputates that fin"

I mean, I like this guy's style.

Ok, ok, I hear ya...

This is one of the many disadvantages of pickup trucks that I'm finding out day after day: can't leave in the back shorts with wax in the pocket...
The search for advantages has been so far unsuccessful.

Today's wave count.
windsurfing: 12
surfing: 15
SUP: 1 (then I figured it was way too windy)
total of the day: 28

Totals up to date.
windsurfing: 38
surfing: 52
SUP: 1
Grand total: 91

" The tide makes the wave both demonic and heavenly. High tide hides the dangerous coral heads, but makes the long left sluggish and somewhat slow. Low tides bares the coral fanges in a snarl, while hustling the waves into a fright train that takes the surfer on a board and body challenging speed run, and brings an occasional tube section."

Despite the fact that the tide was high, my wave #15 was of the second kind.
I think I've never been faster on a surfboard before. And never been more scared when I saw that coral head popping out in front of me while I was shooting down the steep face of the wave.
Surfing, let's face it, is an addiction. You get a good ride, you just can't wait to get another one. And in my case, it may be less than 10 hours away...

Loving it.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Sounds like you're rippin' dude!
Maui was good this weekend. Kanaha on Saturday was unreal on my 4.7 SF!
Steven H. (Keyboard man)