Yet another gorgeous day here in Honolulu.
The consistency of the weather is incredible. It's always sunny, hot and dry. The reason, as one can easily guess, is the direction of the trade winds that blow offshore across a chain of mountains that stops most of the humidity on the windward side.
Oh, and of course another lovely side effect of the offshore wind is that it keeps the waves clean all day...
Unless it's blowing 25+ of course, which will probably happen for a few days starting next Thursday... oh well, I'll go sailing then!
Here's some surfing shots from last big Wednesday.
As I said already, the level at Bowls is pretty high.
Shortboarders or longboarders... they all rip.
Sometimes they eat it too, though!
Dropping in on this guy is probably not a good idea.
A couple of helicopters were searching for someone in the water on the Kewalo side of the magic island. Didn't see any news on the newspapers, so I guess nothing bad happened.
This surfers prefers to wear a helmet. Probably a good idea, seen the size of the waves.
Magic sunset ride.
And now, for the real aficionados who not only watch the photos, but even read what I write, here's the report of the past few days.
Yesterday was my worse day since I'm here. After having checked out a few spots, none of which really inspired me, I ended up getting in the water at Diamond Head with the 6.10.
One wave was all it took to understand that as a surfing spot Diamond Head SUCKS.
I don't get why people actually bother surfing it, when around the corner the wind is lighter and offshore and the waves are 100 times cleaner!
I can understand that in Maui some surfers surf Hookipa when it's windy. I surf and sail, so I have the option to choose and I'd rather sail it, but many surfers don't sail. And when Hookipa it's head high, where else would you surf in Maui?
Paia bay? Tavares? Gimme a break (pun intended).
So, surfing windy waves does make some sense in Maui, if you don't have other options.
But, FOR GOD'S SAKE, why would you choose to surf a wave with plenty chop on the face and a shifty peak if you have 150,000 cleaner breaks around the corner?!?!!
I assume that being a better surfer than me (that doesn't take much indeed), helps overcoming the above difficulties... but still.
Maybe people wants to stay away from the crowds of Waikiki? Yeah right... it was even crowded!!!
My only possible explanation is that even surfing perfect waves after a while can get boring (!) and that at that point surfing a chop infested wave can become fun... for a change, you know.
Whatever... they surf Diamond Head because they can, I guess...
Anyway, after that one wave I surfed Ala Moana In Betweens at sunset and I caught only six more (kinda closing out) for the so far lowest daily score of total 7.
Fortunately, I amply recovered from that poor performance catching a total of 42 today.
The first 17 on the 6.10 at a spot called Suicides. Not sure why the name, since it was a pretty mellow and fun wave... Maybe it needs to be bigger. Let's see what Ambrose say:
"Suicides is a guaranteed good time, despite the rather alarming name. Although the reef can get nasty in the inside section at low tide, Suicides is a fun performance wave where an occasional tube makes a guest appearance"
In the afternoon I went to Da Spot and, seen the extremely light wind, I sceptically went out sailing on the Sea Lion. Last time I tried down the line wavesailing on that thing was on the north shore in Maui on one of the steepest and fastest waves you can think of. Clearly I wasn't too impressed by the performance of that funky little board.
Today, instead... oh my god, did I have fun or what?!
I caught 25 glassy waist to shoulder high gems, kinda slow and not too steep and really enjoyed that same funky little board!
So tonight it's friday night. Everyone is out to try to have fun ingurgitating tons of alcohol and various other toxic substances.
I, instead, am totally fried laying on the bed and feel no need to go look for extra fun. My body needs rest and my soul is content. I am a happy man.
And tomorrow I better be in form, because I'm going to surf together with a surfer that paddled into Jaws.
In fact, the other day I met Marcio, who made my same choice: to spend the summer in Oahu, where the south swells are way better.
I linked this already, but check this video. At minute 2.22 he's going to catch an enormous left a Jaws that should have awarded him the Billabong XXL award.
Tonight he called me and said that he wants to get away from Bowls that is way too crowded...
"No problem brah" I told him, "I'll take you somewhere else away from the crowd..."
Where? We'll see...
Better buy some new shorts first! ;)