Monday, August 13, 2018

Monday 8 12 18 morning call

Thanks a lot to blog reader Justin for the donation via the Paypal button.

A longboard, a SUP foiling and a shortboard session for me yesterday, in a day that saw some very good waves on the south shore. Too much fun to rest my back. If summer in Maui was every day like that (but it isn't), I would feel no need to go anywhere. I also took photos at three different spots. Here's the first one.

Archie Kalepa loves foiling.

"8.40am the guardrails area has plenty head high sets and clean", I wrote. Been quite off with some calls lately (like the arrival time of the hurricane swell, for example), but my reports have been pretty accurate, at least. But that's a lot easier.

Harbor had an extremely high level of surfers and a couple of photographers in the water. I love the water fan in this one.

Lovely warble in the lip line.

Cody Young was one of the standouts, obviously.

Spot 3: Jason's version of a grab rail turn on a foil.

Aerodynamic. Or cool. Or both.

Robby Naish has an extremely low stance on his foil board and he grabs the rail pretty much every time he changes direction, even the backside one. I like it.

Joy is our natural state of being. Then there's the distraction introduced by the mind and its incessant dialog.

You can see the intensity of the effort on the face of the most famous windsurfer in the world.

 As kindly requested by blog reader S., some female beauty. Brother, this one is for you!

2am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.5ft @ 13s from 146° (SE)

3.2ft @ 12s from 125° (ESE)

2.6ft @ 12s from 129° (ESE)

2.1ft @ 13s from 191° (SSW)

2.3ft @ 13s from 189° (S)

South swell down to 13s, but still 2-3f, so more waves on tap for the south shore today. I'll report when I get there (should be early), my optimism guess from home is waist to occasionally chest high.

North shore
4.6ft @ 7s from 80° (E)
2.8ft @ 6s from 81° (E)
1.3ft @ 11s from 74° (ENE)
1.3ft @ 14s from 83° (E)

The north swell that left many uninformed Hookipa surfers wondering why the hurricane swell was still there, lasted 4 days and now it's over. Back to purely easterly energy. The long period one is from hurricane John, but it's tiny and I don't think it's going to be noticeable. So small waves at Hookipa is my call.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific only has the windswell fetch.

South Pacific has a couple of small fetches: a Tasman Sea one and a SSE one. I circled in black and extremely remote fetch SW of South Africa that could possibly (no idea how the great circle rays are) be oriented towards Indonesia. That is a distance of 7.500 miles vs the 4,500 that separate the summer time fetches E of New Zealand from Hawaii. That is to say that Indonesia is one of the countries on Earth with the longest stretch of open ocean in front of it. That's one of the reasons that make the waves always so clean there. If that swell does get there, we're talking 27+ seconds of period.

Morning sky.

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